Posted by ScottyHOMEy on July 20, 2009 at 13:07:29 from (70.105.246.47):
In Reply to: Farmall M clutch posted by jeff338 on July 20, 2009 at 11:44:10:
This is gonna be long, I can feel it comin' so, with apologies in advance . . .
There's one of a couple or three things going on here.
One may be something mkirsch referred to. A lot of those clutch covers were built so that, when removing them, you could remove just three of the six bolts holding the clutch cover to the flywheel (every other one). With the remaining three bolts still holding the clutch in place you took the three you removed and threaded them through different holes and into the back of the pressure plate. What this got you was easier handling of the whole clutch assembly by locking the pressure plate in position and taking the not-always-desirable spring pressure out of the the R&I equation, especially handy in the re-installation part of the process. So have a look around. The only hex-heads you should be seeing are the bolts to mount to the flywheel, and the bolts and jam nuts used to adjust the clutch fingers, which will be near the outer perimeter, near where the fingeres are hinged. If there are three bolt heads nearer the center, look around and see if they are threaded into the back of the pressure plate. If so, they are the problem, and should be removed after the clutch is installed for normal operation. It's a nice touch if the clutch maker put them in there to make life easier for installation (not terribly likely), but it might have been nice to tell you they were there so they could be taken out.
It's a new clutch, you say, which raises another possibility, one more likely than the maker adding three bolts to the package. That is that the fingers were not set at the factory and need to be adjusted before installation. There was a time when a clutch would come out of the box pretty reliably adjusted. No more. It was always worth checking, even in the good old days, but even more so in these times of corner cutting. I spent most of a day helping a friend with just that problem a few years ago.
To check that out and to fix it, you need to pop the clutch back off and get it on a flat surface. If your wife has a nice granite countertop, that would be ideal, just put a piece of sturdy paper underneath everything, and DON'TDROP IT! The measurements and adjustments are easy, but will differ depending on your tractor and the clutch. Early Ms used an 11" clutch, later ones a 12".
With the uninstalled clutch (and without the three bolts I described in the first thought, so that the pressure plate is extended fully forward) and with the pressure plate resting on the bench/countertop, the distance between the surface and the lower edge of the clutch cover should be 1-3/32" for the early 11" clutch, and 1-1/32" for the 12". Any adjustment is made by loosening the jam nuts on the bolts securing the fingers and adjusting the bolts until the desired distance is achieved all the way around. It's more important (durned near critical, really) that this measurement be consistent than precise, so that the pressure plate comes away evenly. So use a measuring stick to get it close, then stack up whatever you need to, a 3/4" board and piece of 1/4" steel, maybe some feeler gauges you take out of their holder on top of that, if you're working in the kitchen, the cake spatula, whatever you have that will stack up to the desired height, and use that as the gauge that you adjust the bottom of the cover to, so that it is consistent all the way around the clutch, taking any eyeball error out of the process. Don't forget to tighten the jam nuts back down and recheck as you go.
When you're all done, you should be able to take poke your measuring stick down through the fingers to the same surface the pressure plate is resting on and lay another straightedge across any two of the inner ends of the clutch fingers, the surfaces that make contact with the throwout bearing, and find them to be 2-21/32" (on either clutch, 11" or 12") above that surface. Again uniformity is more important than hitting the actual number, though not as critical on this measurement as it is on the cover height earlier. The wobble of the throwout bearing and carrier will compensate for slightly uneven finger heights.
As long as you're uniformly adjusted, any small variance from specs can be taken up by adjusting the free-throw on your clutch pedal and be no more serious than adjusting free throw for the wear of a perfectly good and serviceable clutch.
When installed, and the pedal freeplay adjusted to 1-1/8" you should find something on the order of 1/4 inch or so between the face of the throwout bearing and the contact surfaces of the fingers.
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