I'm kinda with Jeff. If you have an experienced radiator shop around, they'll have seen a lot of punctures the size of yours and likely be able to close it right up. If you've got experience in that kind of soldering, there's no reason you couldn't do it yourself. A lot of the trick on radiators (or my take on it anyway) is to focus a lot of heat quickly in a small area so that you're not loosening up some solder somewhere else, like the joint between the upper or lower tank and the core.
Another plus to having the shop do it is that they should pressure test afterwards and fix any pinhole that might be left.
As far as Stop-Leak or something like it, can't hurt might help as long as you have a pressurized system with a pump -- the stuff that does the work needs to stay suspended and it takes pressure from a hot/warm run to force the little flakes into the pinholes. In the non-pressurized thermosiphon systems on the smaller tractors, about all it does is settle and either plug the drain or make a layer of sediment in the bottom, reducing your cooling efficiency. If there's no leak, I wouldn't use it. If there is I'd try to fix it right before using the stuff.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Allis-Chalmers Model G - by Staff. The first Allis-Chalmers Model G was produced in 1948 in Gasden, Alabama, and was designed for vegetable gardeners, small farms and landscape businesses. It is a small compact tractor that came with a complete line of implements especially tailored for its unique design. It featured a rear-mounted Continental N62 four-cylinder engine with a 2-3/8 x 3-1/2 inch bore and stroke. The rear-mounted engine provided traction for the rear wheels while at the same time gave the tractor operator a gre
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