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Re: McCormick-Deering 10-20 runs but I can't hand crank s...


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Posted by spiffy1 on April 20, 2009 at 07:49:27 from (70.41.137.72):

In Reply to: McCormick-Deering 10-20 runs but I can't hand crank start it posted by WOK on April 17, 2009 at 17:31:29:

The spark advance should ground the mag [at the mag: lever way up, maybe 1:00 facing it] when pulled way to the left, it sure doesn't hurt to trade a bit of motion to be on the safe side of turning it off - this wouldn't affect starting, only potentially a bit late at full operating RPM [where you'll have it to the right].

It'd be interesting to post a question on the best time frame and duration for seating the rings, and general break-in: probably get as many answers as # of members activly posting! :lol:

Probably somewhere between 20minutes and 20hours of light loads

(just driving it around I'm of the mindset of a few light trips around the yard [closer to the 20minutes or maybe an hour], at least one long enough to get some temp [at least 130's like a hot water faucet] in the radiator check it over, then a good load for an hour or two)

then give it a load of 1/2 to 3/4 rated

(plow, disk, thresher [if there are enough people and bundles to run an hour straight], or dyno or power-eater)

and get the radiator up to boiling [on water, might want a gauge if you already mixed antifreeze, no idea though of the right number - say 220 constant?] for an hour or better.

I've heard of just covering the radiator and driving it around good and warm, and even claims that quality rings will seat without working it - but logic to me seems that getting it to a solid operating temp and under load before the sleeves glaze is the best chance for the rings to seat. Of course, I wouldn't need to count toes, and maybe not even complete both hands, for the number of engines I've given new rings - so I'm probably over cautious.

For that first or second crank start every time, there are likely some sweet spots - but for starting a few cranks, unless wayyyy too late (like 45degrees back down the stroke), or early enough to kick (or the mag grounding yet in the start position: not the case if you have spark), you shouldn't need that much prescision there.

Same with priming fuel: I do like the cups to see if the carb is cooperating, else just choke for the first couple cranks (on 'loose' engines, I've often used Bob's trick of "mag off"-"choke on" first 4, choke off-mag on the next one, but seldom over a couple pulls with choke (and not even turning off the mag) with good compression) should be enough if the carb [and, of course, everything esle :lol: ] is cooperating.

Good luck! Hope you have more fun than frustration or fatiqued muscles. 8)


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