There is one screw in the pulley. It has a lock nut on it. Socket wrench and extension will work well for the lock nut. The screw should back out fairly easily once the lock nut is off. If it won't....my suggestion would be to apply a little heat from a small propane torch, then more penetrating oil. The screw locks into a groove in the threaded hub of the pulley. A spray can of penetrating oil can be used to get the oil into that groove and then to the bottom side of the screw. This is best accomplished by turning hub so the screw is on the bottom side of the hub. Once the screw is out, the front sheave of the pulley will spin forward on the threads in that pulley hub. It won't move, however, until the screw is out and the threads are clean. Use a small brush and a spray can of carb cleaner to get the dirt out of the threads on that hub. Once the screw is out, tap on the boss opposite the screw using a long punch and a hammer. Tap first one way, then the other. Don't give into temptation and hit it really hard; that will break it. If you absolutely CAN'T get that screw out any other way, you could put the locknut back on it, and weld the nut and screw together. Then, once it cools, it can be removed as an assembly. Of course, then you'll need a new screw and lock nut.
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Today's Featured Article - New Life for an Old Allis - by Tyler Woods. My friend Jon, has an old '39 Allis Chalmers B. He thought it a marginal tractor that had long since served its time. She smoked terribly and never had much power but he couldn't afford another so he was limping along with what he had. Jon's Allis has a small front loader and though it doesn't carry much, it serves his needs. It was the hard starting and low power that made him think it was time to replace the old girl. Jon called me to help him discover why his tractor wouldn't start
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