Well, that makes it fairly simple. All you need is a loop connector that you can bolt down under the nut on your positive battery clamp (or the hot stud on your starter when you get it back). Run a wire from that connector to one side of a simple, single-pole-single-throw toggle switch. From the other side of the switch run a single wire, (14 ga is good) up to the front of the tractor. When you get the wire up to the front end, make up a butt-splice (or a Y) connection, with the wire from the switch on one side and, moving toward the front, two wires out the front end, and run one wire to the hot stud on each light. You'll have to cross the front of the motor to do it, so make sure you get the wire that crosses the motor clipped/zip-tied down so it doesn't get snarled in the fan or the belt. In the original setup, the wire ran up the left side and split behind the generator. The wire for the right-side light is the one that crossed the front of the motor. You may or may not find clips in place to hold it, depending on what used to be there.
If you use a typical tractor light, you shouldn't have need for a return/ground wire. The old Guide lamps (teardrops or the flat sealed-beams) had an insulated stud for the hot wire and grounded through the light housing.
Goin' upscale a little, but depending how well you trust yourself to turn them off when you're done, you may want to wire a pilot light where you can see it when the lights are on. It needs to be in series and can be either between the battery or starter and the switch, or between the switch and the light. If ya want sometin' really $ecksy, there are toggle switches out there where the tip of the toggle has an LED in the end that lights up when the controlled circuit is hot. Whooo, doggies!
The folks at NAPA can fix you up with the connectors, wire and switch.
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