Had a newly rebuilt BN that sat too long waiting for paint do that on me. Good chance you'll end up splitting it and cleaning things up and putting them back together.
But . . . before you do that . . .
Check your free play on the pedal to make sure it isn't excessive. Can't come up with the exact amount off the top of my head, but you should have about 1-1/2" of easy push on the pedal where you're only pulling against the return spring before you hit the real resistance of the springs in the clutch cover. That 1-1/2" is your free play and, for checking out the problem should be close enough. If it does come free, you'll want to come back for the correct number on the free play for ordinary operation.
As part of the same exercise, once the free play is about right, look up through the inspection hole at the bottom of the bell on the torque tube. Have a helper depress the brake pedal while you look to see that the throwout bearing is operating the clutch fingers. (A light through the side inspection hole on the left side and further back on the bell can help with this, which might mean a second helper.) If it appears to be doing what it's supposed to, then the problem is likely that your clutch disc has bonded to the surface of either the clutch surface or the flywheel. In that case you can try dragging a heavy load behind the tractor while in gear. Depress the clutch pedal and continue dragging. Try accelerating whle doing this. That might be enough to break things free if they aren't stuck too fast. That fails, you can try BANGING on the brakes while driving with the clutch pedal depressed (this assumes decent brakes, a somewhat rare phenomenon on a tractor!). Whatever you do, don't tie onto a tree and pull! Get something that will slide, or something that rolls with good brakes where the operator can apply the brake while you pull with the tractor.
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