Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver
 
Marketplace
Classified Ads
Photo Ads
Tractor Parts
Salvage

Community
Discussion Forums
Project Journals
Your Stories
Events Calendar
Hauling Schedule

Galleries
Tractor Photos
Implement Photos
Vintage Photos
Help Identify
Parts & Pieces
Stuck & Troubled
Vintage Ads
Community Album
Photo Ad Archives

Research & Info
Articles
Tractor Registry
Tip of the Day
Safety Cartoons
Tractor Values
Serial Numbers
Tune-Up Guide
Paint Codes
List Prices
Production Nbrs
Tune-Up Specs
Torque Values
3-Point Specs
Glossary

Miscellaneous
Tractor Games
Just For Kids
Virtual Show
Museum Guide
Memorial Page
Feedback Form

Yesterday's Tractors Facebook Page

  
Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Board

Re: Farmall BN wiring


[ Expand ] [ View Replies ] [ Add a Reply ] [ Return to Forum ]

Posted by Janicholson on August 11, 2008 at 19:44:42 from (66.173.50.25):

In Reply to: Farmall BN wiring posted by BobPa. on August 11, 2008 at 18:40:58:

All though not exact in tail light details, A BN is the same as most Farmalls.
Your magneto needs to be left as is.
Do not rewire any part of it. The ignition Kill Switch on the box, is a grounding switch, and stops the engine by grounding the Mag when pushed in. It is an open switch when pulled out.

Reverse the leads on your existing AMP meter, or replace it with a higher amp rated one (50Amps is good) and make sure it is reversed from the original so it reads discharge with the lights on.

This means there will need to be a separate way to get power to the Alternator #1 terminal (small spade terminal in the housing) for exciting the unit into charging. I recommend a oil pressure switch that is normally open when no pressure is found, and closes at 3 to 5 PSI A NAPA item.

This switch will be placed in series with a lead from the Load side of the amp meter, (The pole of the Amp meter on the other side from the wire coming from the battery input from the heavy starter SW on the starter motor). From the Switch the wire can go to (either) an Idiot light using a turn marker bulb, or directly to the #1 terminal. The bulb will act just like a Fault light in a car, with no bulb, it will work fine, but no tell you if it fails to charge.
If you use a bulb, the bulb other wire is attached to the #1 terminal on the alt.

When the engine is not running, the system is not energized.

When it starts, the oil pressure closes the switch and voltage is sent to the #1 terminal (either through the bulb, or directly) and the alternator starts charging.

When the tractor is shut off, the pressure drops and the switch stops sending exciting volts, thus shutting of the system.

The #2 terminal should be attached to the big Terminal on the alternator. This is voltage control, and is needed.

I recommend putting a fuseable link rated at just over the alternator output (NAPA) into the #10 wire going from the Amp meter to the Starter Switch. This limits smoke if something shorts out. The heavy wire from the big terminal of the alternator should go to the Load side of the Amp gauge. Bob M diagrams will make sense of this. JimN


Replies:




Add a Reply

:
:
:

:

:

:

:

:

:

Advanced Posting Options

: If you check this box, email will be sent to you whenever someone replies to this message. Your email address must be entered above to receive notification. This notification will be cancelled automatically after 2 weeks.



 
Advanced Posting Tools
  Upload Photo  Select Gallery Photo  Attach Serial # List 
Return to Post 

TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Today's Featured Article - Choosin, Mounting and Using a Bush Hog Type Mower - by Francis Robinson. Looking around at my new neighbors, most of whom are city raised and have recently acquired their first mini-farms of five to fifteen acres and also from reading questions ask at various discussion sites on the web it is frighteningly apparent that a great many guys (and a few gals) are learning by trial and error and mostly error how to use a very dangerous piece of farm equipment. It is also very apparent that these folks are getting a lot of very poor and often very dangerous advice fro ... [Read Article]

Latest Ad: Sell 1958 Hi-Altitude Massey Fergerson tractor, original condition. three point hitch pto engine, Runs well, photos available upon request [More Ads]

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy