The bolts in the clutch shaft couping are tapered and thus wedge into the holes. They are usually in there real tight, but I've always been able to break them loose (after the nuts are off) by using a box end wrench on the heads of the bolts and twisting. Better to use a 6 point wrench if you have one that fits. You may need to use a hammer on the wrench to jar the tapered shoulder bolts loose. You might as well order new rubber washers for the coupling as the ones in there are likely shot. Also the cup washers are also usually bad. You can't get the transmission input shaft out until you get that drive coupling out. Also, as I recall, you can't get one of the transmission shafts out without removing the brake cross shaft. I believe it is the counter shaft, but don't recall for sure. The manual says you can do it without removing that cross shaft by removing the snap retainer ring on the back bearing, but with all that's in the way, I don't see how that could be done.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Allis-Chalmers Model G - by Staff. The first Allis-Chalmers Model G was produced in 1948 in Gasden, Alabama, and was designed for vegetable gardeners, small farms and landscape businesses. It is a small compact tractor that came with a complete line of implements especially tailored for its unique design. It featured a rear-mounted Continental N62 four-cylinder engine with a 2-3/8 x 3-1/2 inch bore and stroke. The rear-mounted engine provided traction for the rear wheels while at the same time gave the tractor operator a gre
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