Posted by ScottyHOMEy on July 03, 2008 at 08:12:50 from (71.241.193.213):
In Reply to: Re: Hey, Rad Redrunner posted by Rad Redrunner on July 03, 2008 at 06:47:48:
Okay! Now we're gettin' somewhere!
The FCM indicates that you've got a SuperC motor. SuperA motors had a prefix FAAM. The SuperC numbers started in the 100,000 range. I don't know how they numbered replacement engines serially, but I'll give ya dollars to donuts ('Course a good, jelly-filled donut's up to $.69 now, so it ain't that bad a deal, even if I lose. I likes donuts!) if ya scratch around in the paint and gunk a little in front of your "3" you'll find a "1" that'd make it a '52 motor. But it's definitely from a SuperC.
As far as not being able to get the speed to vary over the full range of the lever, I've been meanin' to measure up the arms on the throttle linkage on the old and new carbs I have around to see if maybe the newer ones are shorter, which would explain it. When I first encountered and asked about it, some folks also suggested that an odd bend in the rod from the lever to the governor would also cause it. I'm with you -- it still strikes me as weird.
After you adjust the synch linkage back to where you get your full range back again, I'd check the flow from the tank through the carb and the screen in the inlet elbow first. Don't forget to have a peek in the tank to make sure there's no remnants of wood (like from "fuel gauges") or anything else covering the inlet to the sediment bowl. Telescoping magnets and those nifty claw grippers are pretty handy for getting that kind of jetsam out. When that's okay, start her up. If she still dies on the low end, you'll need to work on the two adjustments on the carb.
Unless you've wound up with an oddball carburetor, the idle fuel mixture screw is just that, and will be the one at the front with the spring under the head, usually at an angle to the throat of the carb and a little above the bowl. The idle stop screw is a little harder to get to. It faces to the rear and is, of course, on the back side of the carb. It takes a LONG 1/4" screwdriver to get to. I usually run mine through one of the oblong holes in the air cleaner mount to get to it.
I'd say start with the idle mixture screw. (The idle stop screw only controls how far the throttle plate will close. A good clean carb will provide enough fuel to idle with the throttle plate pretty much at it's extreme, not-quite-closed position, which allows just a little air, so that the stop screw's basic purpose is to make the fine adjustment to the angle of the throttle plate to set the low idle speed.) Turn the mixture screw in to bottom it out (GENTLY -- if there's any crud in there, winding down too hard will score the needle and/or seat, limiting the purpose of it all), while counting the number of turns it takes to go to bottom. A rule of thumb for setting up new or rebuilt carbs is to start with that screw 1-1/2 turns out from bottom. If yours takes only a turn or less, that may be the problem, and I'd back it out to 1-1/2, see what that gets you, and work from there. With the motor running at idle (Do you have a tach? It's 425 RPM for that motor. The real potential of a dirty carb means yuo may have to run it higher to keep it runnin' at all.) and counting turns on the screwdriver, run it in until she starts to labor for lack of fuel. Still counting turns from that point, back the screw out until she starts to run rough from being too rich, then turn back in to split the difference.
If, after that, you can still kill it by pulling the speed control lever back, you could wind the idle stop screw in to raise the low idle speed so you can keep her running for the meantime, but I'd think you're in for a good carb cleaning and rebuild, which probably is in order anyway. Who knows how long that tractor sat before you got it doin' nothin' but varnishin' up the carb?
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