Scotty, I found the engine serial number and removed the coil for a better view. The number is five digits followed by a "D", and seems to place its origins at late 1940, according to the numbers listed on here. (The chassis number on the under-seat tag is from 1952.) It's likely been switched and swapped alot in its 56 year (68 year?) life.
Anyway, I synchronized the governor and carb like you said, but I had to cut another 1/2" of threads on the rod and leave the locking nut off to get the clevis to match the governor arm position when the carb was all the way back. I re-read your instructions to make sure I didn't get something wrong, and I hadn't. But now the throttle doesn't want to go all the way back to "idle" position. I'm wondering if the springs (on the throttle link-rod, to each side of the governor arm where it attaches) have been switched before, one being shorter and stouter than the other. Which one is supposed to be toward the front, the long one or the short? (I looked at the diagram online, but it didn't show them.) The geometry just doesn't seem to fit, but it got too dark to trace every adjustment down. I guess my first clue that something wasn't right was when I had to add threads to the carb rod, but there was an inch difference in the carb far position and the governor's, and there wasn't that much adjustment left. Besides, what are a few more threads gonna hurt? Anyway, the belts are on and I can always go back and average out the slack if I have to, but I think before I got it, something was put back wrong between the throttle control and the carb', via the governor. Any ideas?
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