Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver
 
Marketplace
Classified Ads
Photo Ads
Tractor Parts
Salvage

Community
Discussion Forums
Project Journals
Your Stories
Events Calendar
Hauling Schedule

Galleries
Tractor Photos
Implement Photos
Vintage Photos
Help Identify
Parts & Pieces
Stuck & Troubled
Vintage Ads
Community Album
Photo Ad Archives

Research & Info
Articles
Tractor Registry
Tip of the Day
Safety Cartoons
Tractor Values
Serial Numbers
Tune-Up Guide
Paint Codes
List Prices
Production Nbrs
Tune-Up Specs
Torque Values
3-Point Specs
Glossary

Miscellaneous
Tractor Games
Just For Kids
Virtual Show
Museum Guide
Memorial Page
Feedback Form

Yesterday's Tractors Facebook Page

  
Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Board

Re: Farmall A (Apologies for the length)


[ Expand ] [ View Replies ] [ Add a Reply ] [ Return to Forum ]

Posted by ScottyHOMEy on June 26, 2008 at 12:55:02 from (71.241.219.119):

In Reply to: Re: Farmall A posted by RHill-CO on June 26, 2008 at 11:24:02:

If it's dropping that low (which is too low) on its own, it's sounds like you're boiling water in there, so she is runnin' too hot. Could be the radiator core, could be an excess of sediment in the block or head, or could just be runnin' too hot.

If they've been left to make sediment, it tends to pile up at the rear. One motor like yours I tore down had sediment up against the back wall that ran probably two-thirds of the way up the back of the #4 sleeve and sloped down to surround #4 about 1/3 at the front and still cover a good bit around the bottom of #3. I'm talkin' hard, dense sludge. Similar up in the head.

Apart from keepin' #3 and #4 from being properly cooled, there was enough sludge in there that it also significantly reduced the liquid capacity of the whole cooling system.

Three things come to mind.

1) your radiator is clogged up as you suggest

2) you have enough sediment in the crankcase and head that you can't hold enough coolant to do the job, or

3) your timing is advanced far enough to make you run so hot that even a clean cooling system can't keep up with it.

To identify and solve the problem, I'd approach those in reverse order.

I've had perfectly clean cooling systems boil over from bad timing (an embarrassing rudimentary mistake on my part that I won't admit to!), so check your timing first. If that's okay (like within 5* of being right, that's not your problem, but it wouldn't hurt to adjust it back to TDC while you're at it.

If your timing was reasonably okay, then it's time to look at the cooling sytem. Fill your system with water to halfway between the top of the core and bottom of the filler neck. Then drain the system into something you can measure -- wash pails with measurements on the side, a five gallon pail and pour it off through a funnel into gallon jugs -- whatever. The system holds about 13 quarts. If you get much less than that, you've got a sludge problem in the block and head. All the usual cautions about disposal of any anti-freeze in the drained mix still apply.

If you can get 12 quarts or so out of that exercise, though, your sludge problem is minor and we're back to the radiator.

For minor sludge or core blockage, I'd first try flushing it. Use washing soda. Arm and Hammer makes it, but it's sodium carbonate, NOT bicarbonate. It's usually up on the top shelves in the laundry section of the supermarket, right next to the 20-Mule Team Borax. Mix two pounds of that up in pails with the same amount of water you got out earlier, pour it into the tractor, then run her hard and hot. Maybe even run her hard and hot and long, or two or three times with cool-downs in between, then drain and see what you get out. Guar-ron-teed, it will be brown and ugly.

At the very least, this ought to scrub out your radiator core some. Several runs might also help break up and wash loose any sludge in the block if that's a problem.

Good thing is it's summer, so you can follow up with a couple of changes of straight water just to clean things up, or even another dose or two of washing soda before a last, hot run or two with water before switching back to an anti-freeze mix for winter.

If the volume of sludge in the block is really severe, then that's something else.

The thermosiphon was actually a pretty efficient system. If you ever heard one of those old girls working from a distance, you'd only hear the exhaust when the governor took over -- when they were runnin' steady all you heard was the howl of the fan. They're made to draw a lot of air through an adequate radiator. When they're working right, the fins at the top of the radiator will be hotter than you want to rest your hand on, but the bottom will be only warm or even cool to the touch.

Bottom line is you're boiling coolant away. You have either reduced flow (radiator blockage and/or severe sludge), reduced capacity (sludge), or you're running too hot in the first place (timing, most likely, or other problem).

Again, I've gotten too long-winded, but hope I've helped.


Replies:




Add a Reply

:
:
:

:

:

:

:

:

:

Advanced Posting Options

: If you check this box, email will be sent to you whenever someone replies to this message. Your email address must be entered above to receive notification. This notification will be cancelled automatically after 2 weeks.



 
Advanced Posting Tools
  Upload Photo  Select Gallery Photo  Attach Serial # List 
Return to Post 

TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Allis-Chalmers Model G - by Staff. The first Allis-Chalmers Model G was produced in 1948 in Gasden, Alabama, and was designed for vegetable gardeners, small farms and landscape businesses. It is a small compact tractor that came with a complete line of implements especially tailored for its unique design. It featured a rear-mounted Continental N62 four-cylinder engine with a 2-3/8 x 3-1/2 inch bore and stroke. The rear-mounted engine provided traction for the rear wheels while at the same time gave the tractor operator a gre ... [Read Article]

Latest Ad: Oliver 550 Diesel runs like a watch three point hitch pto engine gone threw about two hundred hours ago nice clean tractor [More Ads]

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy