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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Board

Re: Stan, I conceed


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Posted by Hugh MacKay on November 14, 2007 at 04:24:35 from (216.208.58.98):

In Reply to: C123 9 vs 14 bolt discussion posted by Stan(VA). on November 13, 2007 at 22:51:13:

Stan: Your right, just went to shop and since mufler, hood, etc. were all off yesterday, everything came apart very easy. 4 bolts is what I see.

I've never professed to being an engine man, probably have done more around engines in the past 5 years than in the previous 60. Even that has never amounted to more than adjusting valves, changing a head gasket, distributor drive gears. Prior to that it was spark plugs, points, timing advance and governors.

Now, I have a question for you and between this and my IT manual, this is probably what threw me back in 2003-04. When I got this 140, rad, water pump and the entire electrical system were toast. I recored the rad, had CaseIH rebuild the pump and went with 12 volt alternator. The 12 volt was only because I have a 12 motor on an implement. After finishing all that, I was getting exhaust puffs as though valves were open when they shouldn't be open. I had adjusted valves a couple times before, thus decided to see if I could take the puffing out of 140. I did, but had to adjust valves to C-135 specs as per the IT manual, .014 on intake an until I got to .018 on exhaust valves I still had the puff. The gap on exhaust valves still remains between .018 and .020. IT calls for .014 both intake and exhaust on all C-123 applications and .014 intake, .020 on exhaust for C-135 in 404 and 2404. Has the IT manual more mistakes than just the 65000 engine serial split.

I'd like your comments, bear in mind my 140 had been parked in a heated warehouse close to 15 years before we got it. My son knew it was there and tried several times to buy it. The 3 brothers that owned it had not been able to get it going in 15 years, even told us they had 3 different pro mechanics work on it. My neighbor and I went there armed with fully charged heavy 12 volt battery, fresh gas, points, condenser, rotor, cap, plugs, etc. We had it going in less than 5 minutes, and kept it going long enough to load plow, disk and tractor. I never did get it going again until I did all the above. After I got it running well, my judgement, this tractor had less than 500 hours lifetime. I base this on the number of new tractors I had lifetime. I have problaly worked the tractor 250 hour since, and no more valve puffing. Your comments are apreciated.


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