Pat, Yearssssss ago I did some antique class pulling until I realized it took big bucks to compete and no one but me was actually stock grrrrrrrrrrrr. For sure you want that drawbar SHORT N UP CLOSE AND NOT WAYYYYYYYYYY BACK FROM THE TRACTOR. Then get the front n rear weight balanced to the point under a hard pull the front end just floats above the ground a tad to put the weights where it matters. Then use whatever gear (if rules permit) so you would run out of HP and traction at about the same time i.e. if geared too low she spins out but if too high she runs out of HP. The thing is, you probalby wont have the gear ratio you need, it will be somewhere between 1st and 2nd lol and you wont have the HP to run at the higher gear grrrrrrrrr
Also when pulling you dont wanna waste any precious HP on things OTHER THEN what turns the rear wheels DUH. Things like Generators and fans and water pumps and unused gears n hydraulics n PTO parts etc etc are alllllll horsepower robbers so eliminate as much as you can and utilize stored energy (big honkin battery that can also serve as front end ballast) where possible instead of the engines energy during the pull.
Run fresh clean water free gas and eliminate unneeded inlet air restrictions n have the carb set rich enough and have a good strong hot spark fer sure.
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Today's Featured Article - Choosin, Mounting and Using a Bush Hog Type Mower - by Francis Robinson. Looking around at my new neighbors, most of whom are city raised and have recently acquired their first mini-farms of five to fifteen acres and also from reading questions ask at various discussion sites on the web it is frighteningly apparent that a great many guys (and a few gals) are learning by trial and error and mostly error how to use a very dangerous piece of farm equipment. It is also very apparent that these folks are getting a lot of very poor and often very dangerous advice fro
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