Posted by tfringo on September 27, 2007 at 06:37:16 from (207.200.116.7):
In Reply to: Exhaust lift parts posted by csmeyers on September 26, 2007 at 18:01:28:
Corey, I rebuilt an exhaust lift once and it came out very nice. As I recall, you will have to make your own cylinder seal from leather. The key to getting the leather to fit is to get the right thickness of leather. Go to a saddle shop and buy some scrap leather large enough to make a seal out of it. 1)Take the piston head apart and clean it good. REMOVE the brass spring. 2) Soak the piece of lether in water for a couple day. 3) Fasten the wet leather to the piston head and very roughly trim the edges. 5) Take a block of wood and a hammer and shape the leather into a cup over the piston head. Take your time and test fit it. You want it fairly snug when it goes into the cylinder. Let the leather dry in the cylinder. 6) After the seal is dry, remove it and trim it up a bit. 7)Make sure the brass spring is intact before it is re-installed. If your spring is broken, you can make a new one by finding some long brass rod and wrapping it around another smaller steel rod. The function of the brass spring was to hold the seal against the cylinder wall. Suggestions....before final assembly, rub some silicone grease into the leather seal. It will help keep it soft and resist drying out. Most operator manuals ask you to install a little bit of water into the cylinder before use to expand the leather seal. The cylinder will work very well if properly rebuilt.
There are two valves as I recall. One exhaust and one control valve. I think I bought the last NOS exhaust valve in the world and used it on my tractor so you will have to rebuild yours. I actually bought mine from case about 10 years ago. Joe's farmall might have them also. The control valve is usually shot. Carfully take it apart. Unscrew the two halves and clean them out real good. I collected a few untill I could make a good one. To remove the shaft you MUST REMOVE a pin so you can unscrew the shaft from the housing. That is how it is held in. I can't remember which pin needed to be removed (either the stop pin or the pin that holds the arm on the shaft). If the threads are shot in the housing, it will not matter, just pull the shaft out. Soak the valve in solvent for a couple days if the shaft is stuck. I had to put a threaded stainless insert into mine to restore the threads. There is a thick rubber disk and a brass disk inside the control valve. The brass disk is usually good, the rubber will need to get replaced (make it or find nos). Make sure the grease fitting in the bottom is good. The unit should stay well greased to protect it. There are seal on the shaft also. Go down to a shop that sells bearings and seals. Buy a quad-seal that will fit the shaft and the groove in the housing. Hope this make sense. Good luck, Terry
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