Re: Transporting tractor

Posted by ScottyHOMEy on July 13, 2007 at 12:38:02 from (70.105.246.111):

In Reply to: Transporting tractor posted by Kevin H on July 13, 2007 at 11:00:47:

Kevin, if you don't have a trailer and sufficient chains (not straps) of your own, and don't know anyone who can lend you such a rigging, I'd strongly suggest looking for a rollback to do it for you. It could turn out cheaper than than renting a trailer and buying the chains you'll need, or even buying the chains to use on your friend's trailer.

First, you don't say if it's a wide or narrow front. Most car haulers that you can rent are open-bottomed, intended for cars and have no place for a narrow front to drive to the front (or rear) of the trailer. They also often have expanded metal tracks for the outside wheels, and you'd likely damage them if you bound the tractor down on its's chains as tight as you should. If you do decide to go the rental route, just be aware that I sat at a U-Haul counter for a long time one day while they tried to explain to a fellow why they wouldn't rent one of their car-haulers to him to haul a tractor. Theirs just aren't built for it.

The others are right about setting your rear wheels in, and you should plan on doing that at the remote site if you plan to haul it yourself. My gooseneck is a full 102" wide deckover, but my tagalong is just 82" between the wheel wells, and I have to watch things closely putting my BN on it with the wheels just two steps out.

You'd be right at the margins for weight on a 7,000 lb. trailer. Mine weighs a shade over 2k all by itself. A bare-bones M weighs a little over 5k. If you're talking wide-front, anything like wheel weights . . . you'd be pushing the limits on a trailer of that type that's in good shape (tires, brakes . . .) even if you allow for tongue weight lightening up the axles.

And I'm thinking a minmum of three chains -- Grade 70 with hooks -- will set you back a couple hundred or more, at which point the rollback starts looking even better.

If you do take it on yourself, be sure you bind the tractor down on the trailer in both directions, so it can't shift either way. You can run the chains away from the tractor's ends toward the ends of the trailer, or you can run the chains toward the middle of the tractor from either end, if that works better with the trailer you use. Either way, just make sure you have enough chain, and that it's as tight as you can get it. And check it aftr you've gone ten miles -- tighten up if it needs it..

Not trying to be a spoilsport. I had my first tractor brought home sixty miles on a rollback. As I acquired more tractors and had more occasion to move them around, I got the trailers that I now have, first the tagalong and, later, the gooseneck.

And I hope you have the kind of success and fun with yours that I had with mine, the kind that leads you to see it being worth the expense to get the trailer and rigging to haul it around, if that's what you ultimately want to do.

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