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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Board

Re: Bob M or other electrical guru, tractor won't


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Posted by Janicholson on November 18, 2006 at 06:46:22 from (66.173.50.86):

In Reply to: Bob M or other electrical guru, tractor won't stay posted by chadd on November 18, 2006 at 06:11:46:

A continuity check is OK for some things, but live circuits may not give readings/listenings that mean what you think they do. Assuming several things I do not know, I will advise the following.

The coil is grounded through the points so a continuity check from ground to either side of the battery to the coil (either side)will produce "noise" when the key is on.

The easiest way to prove operation of major parts might be to hot wire the coil. Place a long jumper between the positive battery post (at the battery), and the positive coil terminal. This should produce a click of the fuel shutoff, and provide ignition voltage. Crank the tractor now and see if it runs. If it does, you know it is the supply side of the system. If not it needs further analysis in the points and condenser/coil.

If it runs, the issue is the wiring/key.

The wire that supplies power to the tractor from the solenoid (attached to the battery side of the solenoid) is a #10 wire going to the amp meter (if it has one) then to the ignition Key. Check to make sure there is battery voltage at the key with a Volt meter. If yes turn the key on and test the voltage at the coil and fuel shutoff solenoid. They should have voltage now. If not it may have an ignition resistor that is bad, or going bad and intermittently touching internally (one of the problems not detected with a contenuity tester), or it may have a bad ign switch or wire to the ign. If yes it should run when turned over by pulling the tractor or cranking it by bypassing the starter solenoid with Fat wire jumper cables. If it does, the key switch may be bad internally not giving voltage to the coil when in the start position of the key (it happens). If there is a fourth connection on the start solenoid with an I on it (stands for ignition) that wire should go to the Pos side of the coil, (not to the resistor). If there is no terminal, ignore this idea. I hope this helps, let us know. JimN


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