Posted by ScottyHOMEy on March 11, 2009 at 08:15:39 from (64.222.222.178):
In Reply to: adjusting clutch posted by Farrell Godwin on March 11, 2009 at 07:17:29:
Could be your free-play adjustment, could be your pilot bushing. Could also be that you just need to wait a second or three. Farmalls and others of that era are notorious for being gear clashers. In normal operation, you need to give the tranny input shaft a few seconds to stop spinning after you press the pedal.
Free-play is easiest to check and adjust and should be done first. It should be an inch to 1-1/4", measured at the actual foot-pad on your pedal. (On other models it's measured between the seat deck and the pedal arm.) For that distance, you should only feel the resistance of the small return spring that hooks between the pedal arm and the underside of your seat platform, before running into the resistance of the springs on the clutch itself. In other words, the distance you can move the pedal easily by hand.
Too much freeplay is not uncommon with a renewed pressure plate or friction disc. If your measurements at the pedal indicate too much freeplay, the adjustment is easy, but awkward. You'll find an opening on the underside at the rear of the torque tube, just in front of the transmission. Follow the linkage from your pedal and you will see it connected to a piece with a threaded rod passing through it, with a nut on either side of the lever in the linkage. Loosen both of those nuts and thread the front one toward the end of the rod (rearward). This will force the rod forward, reducing your freeplay. Snug the other nut back down and recheck. As another verification, you can peek through the access hole in the left side of the torque tube or through the handhole on the underside of the torque tube under the clutch. When properly adjusted, you should see just about a half-inch clearance between the face of the throwout bearing and the clutch fingers.
If all that is in order, and the problem persists, you may still have a sticky pilot bushing. It's located in the rear of the crankshaft, and supports the front end of the driveshaft that passes through the clutch and transmits power back to the tranny. The time to have inspected/cleaned/replaced it was while the tractor was split for the clutch change. It's a dry fit, non-lubeable (if that's a word!) bronzish alloy, and tends to accumulate crud from a leaking rear main seal coupled with chaff and clutch dust, all of which makes it "stickier" than it should be, enough sometimes to keep the shaft turning, even with the clutch released. It's easy to overlook and if it wasn't cleaned up or replaced while you were split . . . A simple test for that problem, if you have a PTO, is to depress your clutch pedal with the tractor in neutral and PTO engaged and see whether the PTO shaft continues to turn. Again, if everything else in in order, that would indicate the pilot bushin being the problem. If so, you could verify that by hooking some kind of PTO driven implement on and trying the same test, still with the clutch pedal depressed. If it turned without the load but does not with the load, then it's likely your pilot bushing. If it still turns, then you may have other issues with adjustment to the clutch cover itself.
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