300u hydraulic suggestions..

Posted by JayWalt on September 01, 2006 at 18:15:20 from (24.223.138.48):

Hi guys. Here is my current setup, what I need to do, and what I am thinking about reconfiguring. Hope some people can give me some ideas.

Here is what I need to do with the tractor:
My current and possibly changing hobby is R/C vehicles. I am building a track in my yard for them, and is the reason I bought the 300u.
I need to be able to move dirt in piles, scrape the ground and smooth out paths.
The current config is as follows...
Tractor hs a fast hitch on the back with working hydraulics.
Has front end loader with trip manure bucket. The trip mechanism is messed up as this is not the correct manure bucket for the loader. I currently have the bucket welded to brackets which bolt to the loader from,

Now here is what I want this tractor to have. First and foremost is a power dump for the bucket. My bro is making me a new bucket where he works. He is a fabricator and has access too ALL kind of metal working tools. He told me about one of their shears which can shear up to 3/8" plate 12 foot long!! I am keeping the bucket inside the width of the loader arms to keep the weight closer to the cylinder mounting points which reduces stress on the arms. So for this setup I will have the bucket and cylinder mounting point adjustable, well more like they can vary because they arent made yet.

As some of you may know (or maybe not cause I dont know the model of my loader), This loader can be easily converted to a power dump bucket if you have acces to the bucket, a cylinder and the dump cylinder mounting bracket that bolts to the arms. Now I know it will be IMPOSSIBLE to locate that crossbrace/cylinder mounting bracket because no one is going to sell just that, much less just a loder. So I am going to fab up a bracket, not a big deal.

Here's the tricky part. I'm trying to keep this cheap. I need to know if this is possible:

Removing the fasthitch cylinder, getting longer hoses and using the cylinder for the power dump. Total cost would be about $30 for the longer hoses. I would then put a turnbuckle in place of the cylinder on the hitch. A few concerns here.. Is the cylinder suitable for the dump bucket? It has to be fairly strong beause the hitch puts at least a ton of downforce on implements, and the hitch moves at least 2x what the cylinder rod moves, so the leverage makes the cylinder weaker then the work it has to do (so it has to be overrated if that makes sence). I am concerned if I ever need to raise/lower the hitch, it will be a pain with a turnbuckle. The valve for the dump would be in a not so great location, but tolerable.

Now here is another option:
I can get vavle selectors (selects one source to 2 loads) for $11 each on clearnce, regular $60. Now I could plumb these in to switch between the cylinder for the hitch or the dump, which wuld save me the $160 for the valve for the dump. Total cost would probably be around $200 ($90 for the cylinder, $25 for the valves, and probly $40-60 for misc hoses and fittings). Complications include the mess of new hoses, finding a good place to mount the 2 selector valves, and the added cost.

Here is a 3rd and least desirable option:
Buy new dump cylinder, new hoses, and new valve. First thing that sucks is the cost, probly $300 easy, more like $350. Second, I dont know how to plumb it into the existing system. The 2 valves on the system now are bolted directly to the resevoir. Where would I mount this 3rd one?

I tried and tried to locate used cylinders/vavles (I'd buy new hoses) from junkyards but most of them around here are reluctant about letting you in to snoop around, and the ones that do charge nearly as much as the parts are freakin new!! (which is bull cause they are just getting scrap price for the metal GRR)

So I'm sure I forgot some things.. but let me know what you guys think.
Also, my dad works at a stone quarry and he says all of their older hydraulic equipment uses sae10wt oil. I cannot find the hydrant oil the tactor calls for. TSC does sell a universal fluid, but it is $24 for 2 gallons and I dont need nearly that to top it off. I dont want to use something that will damage the system.
Anyone got any valves or cylinders laying around =)

BTW, I'm not poor, just trying to be as cheap as possible, as this tractor is like not my main hobby. Maybe I should have just rented a bobcat, but Tractors are cooler!! and renting does nothing for maintaining/changing the track.

Replies:

• Re: 300u hydraulic suggestions.. Nat 2 20:37:50 09/01/06 (1)
  • Re: 300u hydraulic suggestions.. JayWalt 21:29:08 09/01/06 (0)

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