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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: 414B ENGINE
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Posted by jdemaris on April 12, 2004 at 07:20:32 from (209.23.30.184):
In Reply to: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: 414B ENGINE posted by Greg on April 12, 2004 at 06:32:26:
On the relay, the "I" terminal is of no use to you. It would be for a gas engine with an ignition ballast resistor. The "S" terminal stands for "start." It's the low current 12 volt connection to energize the relay. If it was being used with a starter motor, this "S" terminal would go to the "S" or "Start" connector on the ignition switch or pushbutton. In your situation, it will be connected to whatever you are going to use to turn on your glowplugs. I have a push button on mine, but use whatever you want. It should be a momentary switch, though, i.e. something that turns off by itself when you take you hand off of it.
All the relay is, is a remote controlled switch. So, the two big posts are #1 for battery input, and #2 for battery switched output. By feeding 12 volts to the little "S" post, the switch contacts close, and battery current flows from one big post to the other. So, one post gets a wire big enough to carry the current for all the glowplugs. As I recall, my four plugs and the glow-plug indicator draw a total of around 30 amps. 10 gauge wire will work, but 8 gauge is better. You can't "overwire" it. So, you need a wire or cable coming from the postive battery source to one large post. The other large post gets hooked to your glow-plug indicator, which, in turn, is hooked in series with the glow plugs. For a little fire insurance, you can protect the battery source cable or wire with a 30 or 40 amp fuse or circuit breaker where it hooks to the battery. I suggest you hook power to the indicator and four glow plugs to an ammeter and find out exactly how much current you are drawings. Obvisouly, the fuse or breaker must exceed that draw a bit.
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