Re: 300 IH, COIL CONDENSER BLUES

Posted by dan on May 29, 2003 at 19:47:36 from (66.230.21.198):

In Reply to: 300 IH, COIL CONDENSER BLUES posted by BOB - BAMA on May 29, 2003 at 10:18:27:

Do you have a multimeter to check to make sure that you are actualy only getting 6 volts or so to the distributer? All ballast resistors are not created equal. some early gm ones run 9-10 volts. Chrysler runs 6-7 volts usualy ford is about the same as chrysler. It is realy amazing how stupid parts men can be if you go in there and ask for a 6 volt ballast resistor sometimes. Most have no clue whatsoever about points systems anymore. I just worked on an old vw bug for a neighbor that had been to 3 different shops recently and none got it right. All it was was a simple tune up. They set the point gap at .004,should have been .014, Timing was about 30 degrees and should have been 0 static, The valves wich are solid type just like on our farmalls were set like hydraulic lifters. Down till they touch then 3 more turns.They should have had .04 clearance dead cold. Any other car but a bug would have never run again after that kind of abuse. I got it all fixed right for the lady and she said she never heard it run so good. The last shop also tried to sell her a new trans because it grinds (with an unexperienced driver) going into 2nd gear. Have ya'll ever seen a nonsyncronized trans that wouldn't if you didn't know how to drive one? anyway sorry about the rant but I was just trying to explain how parts places and garages can be pretty clueless when it comes to old iron nowdays.
On yours if your ballast is too hot That could burn points but I doubt it would the coil if you have a 12 volt coil. Bad grounds or the points staying closed with current flowing when it isn't running could cause a fried coil. Are you sure the coil went bad? A loose shaft would definitly burn points in a hurry by making a short arc on one side of the dist rotation and a long one on the other side. Long arcs fry points and short ones will usualy not run or will fuse them together.

I would get a bushing made for the distributer and buy a new shaft if it is worn at all. Make sure the machinist drills an 1/8 inch hole all the way in one side and out the other where the grease fitting or plug is. It's amazing how many new ones I have seen without that very important hole. You can replace the shaft yourself if you have a drill press ( I really don't recommend doing it with a hand drill). You have to drill a 1/8 in hole for the pin that holds the gear on. Might as well replace the gear too while in there. On the top of the distributer , I forget the part name, But the cam on top that controlls the advance needs to not have any wiggle too. I had to bush mine since it is no longer carried by IH. Make sure the advance springs are good but best to replace since you are doing all this work. Finaly set the points according to spec and use IH parts for tuneups.
I disagree with a previous post about the IH dealer being cheaper than autozone but autozone quality is seriously lacking. IH factory parts may look different from the originals now but is of the same fine quality for the most part. I only buy oil at autozone anymore because I have been burned too many times by their junk parts.
One more thing make real sure you get the correct shaft from the IH dealer. There are many different ones for the same distributers like for example my super c uses different advance springs and shaft because it has firecrator pistons. There are also different ones for step heads, flat heads, whatever, you get the picture. write down all the numbers on your engine and head and try to determine the type of pistons in it. Firecrators run really bad with the wrong distributer build and vice versa.
Hope I helped some. sorry it got so long winded.

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