Re: always wondered

Posted by Bob Kerr on February 22, 2002 at 08:23:56 from (205.188.197.29):

In Reply to: always wondered posted by adam on February 21, 2002 at 21:56:27:

Like Walt says, Patients is the key, Unless you are in a hurry like I was when I rebuilt my 10-20. I was going to have to remove the head anyway so I went ahead and did it. Then I cleaned off the tops of the 2 cylinders that were rusted bad and put in a tiny bit of kerosene and oil mix in all 4 cylinders and took off the inspection hole covers off the block. I let it sit and soon could see kero running down 2 of the rods.That is a clue that those may not be stuck or not stuck too bad. The 2 that didn't drip were rusted real bad and you couldn't tell between the piston top and the cylinder wall. I took a block of Ash wood (oak is good also)about 6" long x 1x2 and cut a slight taper on one end and shaped the side to match the bore.Then I took a small hammer, set the wood on top of the piston right up against the cyl wall and started tapping lightly on the piston, but not above the wrist pin area. that got the piston Rocking in the bore a little and with a few splashes of kerosene they soon started dripping reddish colored crud down the rod.Dont hit the piston in the center or it can cause the top to break.Tap it along the sides on top so the force of the hit will go down the piston skirt, and switch sides to get the rocking to happen.That will help get the rings loose also.This may not work if an engine was rebuilt and then was let get stuck since the tolerances are tighter, but it is still worth trying. I kept at it for a while and soon she rolled right over. Then I could get the pistons and rods out. I cleaned up everything real good, honed the bore a little and was suprised that it cleaned up good! There were two or three small black spots that were pits in the bore, but they were smaller in dia than the ring thickness so I didn't bother changing the sleeves.New rings and bearings adjusted, extensive cleaning,checking and the block was good to go. Now I am glad I took off the head first because I would have bent or broken pushrods or rocker arms if the crank turned. All but three valves were stuck super tight and needed the acetylene torch and a big brass hammer to get to even budge. Now if I am getting an engine loose I always pull the valve cover and make sure the valves are free before I put any kind of force on the engine, by pulling it in gear or using a bar on the flywheel, to see if it will budge. I rebuilt everything on that tractor but the trans and rear end and was plowing with in in 1.5 months!It had been sitting outside (luckily it was out west)in a fence row for 30-40 years. If you take your time and don't force anything too hard, it can keep you from breaking parts that otherwise may still be good.

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