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Farmall Tractors Discussion Board

Tips on removal/replacing H water pump without pulling the radiator


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Posted by The Red on July 09, 1999 at 08:28:54 from (206.246.187.2):

I performed water pump surgery on my 45H this week. Since the radiator had already been boiled and repaired in 1991, and I had replaced the thermostat and hoses at that time, I had no reason to remove either the radiator nor the thermostat housing. Since the older cast iron bolsters don't have convenient holes to get to the two radiator stud nuts, it's a pain to get off. The 51 had two holes and it was easy to remove.

Have some 1 1/2 inch hose available. Its a whole lot easier to just cut the hose off that connects the radiator pipe and the water pump. Obviously drain the system and loosen the clamps on the radiator pipe and the hose between the thermostat housing and the water pump.

Try to take the fan blades off if at all possible. I could not get the tapered bolt loose so I had to take the assembly out as one. If you have this problem, then you will have to loosen the upper radiator hose clamp at either the radiator or the thermostat and push the radiator forward against the upper bolster. You will also need to remove the inlet pipe that goes into the top of the governor. You can angle the assembly out with the base rubbing against the top of the governor housing and you will need to rotate the fan blades as you yank it out.

The problem on this water pump was the previous owner had replaced the bearing near the large pulley but stuck the banged up seal back in. After I cleaned the H up and painted it in 1991, I then discovered I had a grease slinger on my hand after several hours of operation. Just finally getting around to fixing it. Be carefull when you bang out the bearings and seals. My punch slipped on the outer bearing and damaged the cage (pulled a "Red") and now I am $18 poorer with 2 new bearings. The bearing towards the water pump base was usable but original and pretty worn.

After you fix the pump and ready to reinstall, place the fan blade assembly inside against the radiator. If you don't (and I didn't-another pulled a "Red") then you will have to pull the lower shroud loose on the governor side to slide the blade in. I hooked the pump back up to the thermostat housing so I would have some room to install the new gasket. Make sure to stick both belts on the assembly before installing. You don't have to hook the main belt onto the lower pulley. I just had it laying behind the pulley against the timing gear cover and laying on the pump belt pulley. Once you have the pump mounted, start the belt on the lower pulley and just give the starter a pop. Mine went right on. Adjust the adjustable flange as needed. I left a touch of slack in mine.

I recommend you install the fan blade assembly next before hooking the generator belt back up AND BEFORE YOU FILL THE GREASE FITTINGS!! I greased first and saw the front seal starting to push out. (Another pulled a "Red"-too many beers.) Don't forget to re-install the governor oil line before firing up. Cut the new 1 1/2 hose about 3" in length so you have some wiggle room when reinstalling the radiator pipe. Obviously hook radiator back up, tighten hoses, fill and fire.

Uh, BTW, when you stick in the new bearings and seals on your pump, don't forget to stick back in the big spacer. The Red pulled another "Red" on that!



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