Re: Different crank seal question

Posted by CSR on March 27, 2007 at 03:41:23 from (192.249.47.8):

In Reply to: Different crank seal question posted by Roger Mills on March 26, 2007 at 15:30:23:

You have to remove the timing cover because the seal goes in from the rear. I just started all the bolts, figured I'd finish running them in after the pulley was installed and concentric with the crank seal, but I couldn't shift the cover around before I installed so the pulley, so I just tightened the cover. My pulley ID measured about .002 smaller than the crank. I gave it a light flapper wheel, then heated the pulley to 300F for 3 hours. At 1.25 in diameter (going from memory), a change in steel temperature of 230F (300F-70F) will change the diameter .0018 which reduced the interference fit from .002 Tight to .0002 Tight. A light tap with a block of wood and a hammer and it slid right on. I then started cooling the pulley immediately by wrapping a water soaked rag around it (next to the seal) till the rag smoked, then I'd resoak and do it again. I lubed the crank up good with oil before I started and made sure I put some camshaft assy lube on the seal also. Most silicone rubber products are advertised as good to 500F so I felt 300F was OK, plus the wet rag pulled the heat from the pulley rather than have it heat soak the seal.

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