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Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

Eat'n my own words

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Lanse

05-03-2008 18:46:17




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"Good, i finally found a crankshaft that'll work"

I took in my old crankshaft to the local head and block shop and they measured it. The man said it had allready been taken 30 under, and worn way beyond that, and unless i could find 40 bearings, i needed a new crank. We then headed up to the next few towns over for the right bearings and some other salvege parts, and another crank. Got everything there and then stopped at an auto parts store for a piston ring compressor, some oil and filters, fuel line, new oil gauge, new water temorature gauge, new muffler, and plug wires. Then i got home and started putting everything back together. Got the crank in and torqued with the bearings, then Tried to get the flywheel on the crankshaft. It wouldnt go, so i stood the engine up and discovered that this crankshaft and flywheel had the holes in differet places. I have a 1939 tractor and flywheel, and not crankshaft. Real Nice. So i am now looking for another AC B flywheel, and a thermostat (mine is srtipped from removing the remains of the last gauge). My question is, do i need a new clutch also??? Im allready looking for a new flywheel not off a 1939 model (anything else) , Lanselot1993@aol.com if anyones got one. I stand by that it'll be worth it if i can pull it off

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trucker40

05-04-2008 07:45:56




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 Re: Eat'n my own words in reply to Lanse, 05-03-2008 18:46:17  
Did you plastiguage the crank?If you dont know how,plastiguage is a piece of plastic that looks like a hair wrapped in paper.The paper has stripes of different widths on it.You take a piece of it,put it on a clean crank,put new clean bearing shell in rod or main cap,torque down,take back apart,measure with gauge on the paper the ploastiguage comes in.That tells you your clearance between the bearing and the crank.When a motor is running the crank and rod bearings ride on a cushion of oil.There is no contact of the bearing and crank,until you start or stop the motor and oil pump quits pumping.The way it works is you have 1 to 3 thousandths of clearance between the bearing and the surface of the crank.More than that and you dont have oil pressure.No oil pressure and your bearings contact the crank,it causes friction because there is no oil cushion,and then you spin a bearing,causing you to rebuild motor,if you spin a main at least need line bored,rods can be resized,but its a lot of work and money when all you have to do is Plastiguage it first.Ask people at the parts store what clearance you need,and how to use it.You always need to do this when you build a motor or you run the risk of having a rod come through the side of the block.Dont go paint something,or do anything else until you plastiguage the bearings,if you havent done it yet.You also want to clean all the plastiguage off the crank and bearing shelll before you put it together.After I plastiguage mine,I take the crank back out,using a clean rag or paper towel with laquer thinner,solvent,or something,clean all the plastiguage off the crank.Oil the bearings in the block,put the crank back in,clean the bearing shell with solvent,blow dry with compressed air,put back in the caps,oil,put back together.It always has to be as clean as you can get it.Even if you have to wash your hands a few times to keep from getting dirt in there,you dont want any dirt or grit between the bearing shell and the cap,or between the bearing shell and the crank.After you get the crank in the block and torqued down finally,you grab the crank and spin it with one hand,if it doesnt spin freely in your well oiled bearing shells,something is wrong,and you have to find out what it is before you turn the crank any more,and before you put any rods in.There is only one way to build a motor,the right way.Sure you could get lucky and skip a bunch of steps and get it to run.It could run a while,or fly apart.You might have oil pressure,might not.Being as how you are a kid and anxious to hear it run,you might run it a while without oil pressure,and turn it into junk.Or it could run for 20 years.Try and take some guesswork out of it and check everything,then when you get done it could still blow up,but the chances of it blowing up after checking everything,and going over every bolt 2 times with a torque wrench is a lot less likely to happen.

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Roy in georgia

05-03-2008 20:48:33




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 Re: Eat'n my own words in reply to Lanse, 05-03-2008 18:46:17  
did you plastiguage the bearings to check clearance its a easy and cheap method to double check that measurements were done right. and that calculations were correct in figuring the bearings needed.



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old

05-03-2008 19:23:37




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 Re: Eat'n my own words in reply to Lanse, 05-03-2008 18:46:17  
Lance the holes on a flywheel are off set a little bit so they bolt on one way only. You may need to spin it one, 2 or maybe 3 holes to get them to line up as they should. There off set like that for balance and if mounted wrong the engine would shake its self apart in a heart beat. And by the way I have at least 2 flywheels one hand but they are made for electric start

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Lanse

05-03-2008 19:26:58




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 Re: Eat'n my own words in reply to old, 05-03-2008 19:23:37  
yep-figured that out when someone told me on the AC board a minuite ago. Hey R Aiken, what was that you were telling me about stupid questions :-)



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old

05-03-2008 19:50:25




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 Re: Eat'n my own words in reply to Lanse, 05-03-2008 19:26:58  
Lance the only stupid question is the one you do not ask. I learned many many many years ago to ask a lot of them and then sit back and open your ears and mind and keep your mouth shut till the guy stops talking



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Lanse

05-03-2008 20:31:54




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 Re: Eat'n my own words in reply to old, 05-03-2008 19:50:25  
will do, old :-)



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RayP(MI)

05-04-2008 05:14:30




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 Re: Eat'n my own words in reply to Lanse, 05-03-2008 20:31:54  
Like OLD says - don't ever hesitate to ask for help. Most of us "been there - done that," and had we had the right answers, saved ourselves a lot of grief! There's a lot of combined knowledge on these boards. Tap into it!



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