Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

OT-wet basement (lengthy)

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
used-to-be-iowa

04-27-2008 12:09:05




Report to Moderator

Just about to come home from a Kosovo deployment with my Guard unit. Know I'll have a "honey-do" list like never before, one of which will be finish off a basement. Have to make sure it's dry first and it's currently not. Central Iowa, it was a poured wall buried basement on a hillside. 3 yrs ago we dug out the downhill side and added on enough that it became a walk-out basement. The old basement floor had a floor drain that was just piped out the hillside. As we needed a way to drain the central heat/AC unit condensate and water softener discharge, we put in a sump bucket and pump with a discharge pipe run under the new slab and out the hillside. It used to slow leak a little every hard rain in one place on the uphill side wall where there were 3 hairline cracks. During real wet spring seasons, it would occassionally come up through the floor. Last year I bought a kit that injects sealant into the cracks, it seems to be holding really well through this wet spring. I had hoped that plugging these cracks and relieving head pressure by digging out the hillside to make the walkout would solve the problem, but alas...time for more serious measures. My question is, if I rent a saw, cut a channel through the 'crete around the perimeter of the old basement, and gravel in a perf tile with both ends dumping into the sump bucket, would this have a high likelyhhod of solving my issues, or will there still be significant pressures on the walls? I got one est. a year ago from a well-known, highly advertised basement waterproofing company. Sounds like they'd do the same thing, but with a propietary tile that has a lip which extends up through the newly poured 'crete. They'd then cover the walls with some kind of propietary plastic material, the bottom edge of which sits inside the tile "lip". Any water coming through the walls sheets downward, into the lip, down to the tile, and away to the sump. They don't get out of the truck for less than $3K, wanted $5K to do the entire old half of the basement (24'x48'). What would you do? DIY or leave it to the pros? Anyone have any experience with the type of system they're proposing?

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
used-to-be-iowa -dave

04-28-2008 23:39:12




Report to Moderator
 Thanks! in reply to used-to-be-iowa -dave, 04-27-2008 12:09:05  
I hate it when you get a unanimous answer that wasn't the one you wanted to hear :) but I surely appreciate the answer.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
lucas boy

04-28-2008 04:35:54




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT-wet basement (lengthy) in reply to used-to-be-iowa -dave, 04-27-2008 12:09:05  
if you b dry in your area ,id get an estimate from them. they did 2 basements for me and have stayed dry for years now. 1200.00 range.the put in sump pump.lucas



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
jose bagge

04-28-2008 04:14:01




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT-wet basement (lengthy) in reply to used-to-be-iowa -dave, 04-27-2008 12:09:05  
Dave, working inside the house is only masking the problem. You need to go outside the house and dig down to the footers. lay in 6" of course gravel, and perferated 4" black flexible pipe (tile to some folks) allaround the house exiting out the low side well away from the house. Lay in another foot of course gravel over top.

Before you back fill, cover the exterior walls with driveway sealant, and run plastic sheet up the walls- DO NOT COVER YOUR GRAVEL. Leave about 4 feet at the top loose and then start backfilling. About 8" below ground level, fold your plastic back out into the yard and continue filling. Make sure that you mound dirt higher along the wall so everything flows away from the house instead of pooling around it.

Connect unperforated black pipe to all downspouts and get it well away from the house to.

Good external french drains will solve your problem without the need for a sump pump. I had a terrible mess for 10 years before a broke down and started digging- this fixed it once and for all

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
NE IA

04-27-2008 19:00:06




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT-wet basement (lengthy) in reply to used-to-be-iowa -dave, 04-27-2008 12:09:05  
Dealing with the last round your basment will probably leak. This one got the old timers that never leaked before.

Always devert water rather than trying to deal with it against the basment wall.

After deverting 99% A lower yet somewhat expensive way to back it up is to take a tiling machine and dig a tile around the house three foot deeper than the basment. Get as close as reasonably possible and fill the trench with washed rock or creek rock. Third insurance is then sealing the basment wall is good, ON THE OUTSIDE and you might as well get it over with. We usualy power wash the wall and plaster it up with masonary sand and mason cement. A good idea is to paint the wall with pure mason cement and water mixed (no sand). Thin to paint like latex paint. We use a drywall texture gun so it goes real fast. This gives you a real rich mix at the contact point. Then plaster it up with mason cement and sand--This is how they used to make cysterns. After it cures for a week or so you can paint it with tar. You must have a drain tile ----- BELOW the footing, not on or level with it. And again backfill with a clean rock. You will not need a sump pump if you let mother nature do it. Make sure you use a rodent guard at the end of your tile so no cats go up and plug it. Wet basments do not go away on their own, and sump pumps are a pain unless you don't own one.

This last Friday I replaced four that were less than two months old and two were purchased Friday morning. The floats were falling off one, and most folks do not realize the fact that water cools the pumps. Therefore you can not expect them to work sitting on a basment floor.

Of course it cost you some money, but take into consideration the deductable when the water does come in, plus the mess to boot. Insurance companies are not going to take a second hit if you are lucky enough to get covered the first time. Get your name on the uninsureable list. It is a new ball game with insurance companies.
We have had a contractor in our area that passed away a while back. Any call from his jobs are easy to discover the problem... FHA said you had to bury a drain tile completly around the house. They made no mention to have a tile leading the water away. He just made a complete circle and tied the ends together. He was the cheapest bid however.

Ya kinda hate tearing up the yard, but today is better than a couple years from now.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
bellyacre

04-27-2008 18:21:55




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT-wet basement (lengthy) in reply to used-to-be-iowa -dave, 04-27-2008 12:09:05  
Don't depend on a sump pump to keep your basement dry. When you need it most is when the power goes out. Like the others said, keep the water outside.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
jlmtractor

04-27-2008 15:04:29




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT-wet basement (lengthy) in reply to used-to-be-iowa -dave, 04-27-2008 12:09:05  
if you have gutters you should go ahead and hook a tile to your downspouts and run the pipe away from your house which should help a little bit with your moisture problem and If i were coming to fix your house i would run perforated around your house and paint the block walls with paint specially made for basements that seals all cracks and creates a moisture barrier



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
buickanddeere

04-27-2008 14:44:47




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT-wet basement (lengthy) in reply to used-to-be-iowa -dave, 04-27-2008 12:09:05  
It's been proven inumerable times that."It's better to get rid of a problem rather than trying to deal with it.
Keep the water on the outside instead of inviting the problem inside.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
TomH in PA

04-27-2008 14:14:33




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT-wet basement (lengthy) in reply to used-to-be-iowa -dave, 04-27-2008 12:09:05  
I had a similar problem, and as Steve said, the solution to the problem is outside the basement on the uphill side. Divert the water before it gets to the house, basement will take case of itself.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
usetabesteve

04-27-2008 13:07:16




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT-wet basement (lengthy) in reply to used-to-be-iowa -dave, 04-27-2008 12:09:05  
In my opinion, you'd be better off with a swale and a french drain to take the pressure off your uphill wall. Keep your gutters clean and free runnning as well. The tile you had planned will not by itself handle all of the pressure since the footing will get in the way.

About that proprietary system...it will work if your basement walls are solid. You are going to be dealing with trickles, not sheets of water here. If you have any movement of the wall where that "Beaver board" is installed, the system will come apart and leak.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy