Major 4020 ???

Now the tractor is Looks GREAT, really nice paint job! No sheet metal missing, no dents. Clutch is good, brakes are good, Transmision shifts out good and all.
The engine, however seems to have an Oil leak between the head and the block. I think it has a blown head gasket. There was no signs of oil and water mixing in the oil when I checked the dip stickt. But oil seem to seep out on the right hand side oppiste the starter.
We also ran the tractor on the dyno and it only made 70 HP instead of 88 hp as rated. The engine only had 3500 hours on it, there was no smoke nor was there any blow by.

The 158 loader on this tractor was in good condition no cracks, no welds, most of the pins and bushing were tight. I think the loader was fine.

For $7400.00 for this tractor is this a good deal being that it is a gas and not a diesel? is this the going rate for something like this?
Which would YOU choose the whole tractor for $7400.00 or just the loader for $3500.00

I did pay 3500.00 for this loader maybe I paid a little on the high side for this...maybe buying the tractor would compensate...

Replace the float needle and seat. Since it otherwise seems to run good but just low on power I presume it has a Zenith carburetor. The 4020 MS is a bear to tune and even Deere says put on a Zenith.

Pull the rocker cover and torque the head bolts. Set the valves while you are there.

Put some wide tires on the front, say 11L16 four rib on 8" wide rims to hold the front end up with the loads that 158 can pick up. The tall and wide rims will protect the spindles from the dinky factory tires catching in ruts, furrows, and pot holes. I have 11.00-16 on mine, even taller than the 11L.

It will do your jobs for a very long time and you will find it rides very comfortably.

Gerald J.

I will mention that the motor DOSE NOT smoke and it has no blow by, even when it was pulling on the dyno!!

Gerald J.

I paid $5250 for a 1968 gas 4020 about 8 years ago. I had to replace plugs and plug wires, and cure its running rich as well as set the timing. If its not been tuned lately too little point gap from rubbing block wear will have retarded the timing and can easily cost 18 hp on the dynomometer. Carbon wires and old plugs can do a lot to reduce the power too.

Oil out the side of the head gasket isn't so good. I know mine has been apart, every engine bolt has marks from sockets or box end wrenches.

You'd pay several thousand more for a similar vintage diesel and if the Roosa pump hasn't been rebuilt you will soon and that will cost a whole lot more than a few sets of plugs and copper wires. I figured for the price of farm gas when I bought my 4020 gas that if a diesel cost $4000 more, I could pay for gas for 14 years. Since then I have weaned it and the price of gas has gone way up, but I still have years of gas paid for by the savings in purchase price.

Doing a head gasket and valve job shouldn't be too expensive. The hood lifts off after you take off the cowl and some bolts and then top of the engine access is very good though not too handy standing on the ground. Some blocks and planks would be handy.

Gerald J.

I've never seen a 148 loader for less than $2500. Its the "compact" version of the 158.

The tractor price without loader or the combination price is good or better than good.

Gerald J.

He will let me have the tractor for 3900 bucks..