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OT: Barn Electric

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Kent in KC

11-17-2006 07:50:11




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Well, we got the cable buried out to the new pole barn. It is a #2, tri-plex (aluminum), 400 feet long, plus a local ground rod in leiu of four conductors.

My original intent was to put 100 amp 117vac service out there. Now, a neighbor is suggesting I pump 220 out to it. Q: Will that cable support 220? I really don't need 220v now since my compressor, welder etc. are all 110. I guess it might be nice some day. What do you guys think?

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MarkB_MI

11-18-2006 06:30:44




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 Re: OT: Barn Electric in reply to Kent in KC, 11-17-2006 07:50:11  
Your electrician did you a big disservice with this setup. As others have said, you do not have anywhere near 100 amp service with this setup. You'll be OK running lighting and a smaller power tools, but you will not be happy with your 110V welder and compressor; these both need a lot of current.

There are two problems with this setup: First, as others have said, the #2 aluminum is way too light. Second, the "local ground rod in lieu of four conductors" is not up to code. You need four conductors PLUS two local ground rods.

OK, what can you do to salvage this situation? If your trench is still open, I'd bury another #2 aluminum USE so you have four conductors per code. If it's closed, then go with your current plan. Two ground rods (per code) are better than one, however.

Now with regards to your desire for 220V, you already have it. I assume you're putting a 100 amp panel in your barn. It has two hot sides, each is 120 to neutral, but you get a total of 240 from hot to hot. So if you plug a 240V breaker in your panel, you have 240V.

To make the most of your marginal setup, you need to minimize the current in the neutral conductor. You do this in two ways: 1) use 240V equipment as much as possible, and 2) balance the loads on the two phases. If you can convert your compressor to 240V, by all means do so. It will cut the total current in half, while eliminating the voltage drop in the neutral conductor. Put your lighting on the opposite phase as your 120V outlets to help balance the loads. on each phase.

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paul

11-17-2006 21:01:08




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 Re: OT: Barn Electric in reply to Kent in KC, 11-17-2006 07:50:11  
Acording to this voltage drop calculator

Link

your 400 foot run of #2 triplex is only good for 28 amps at 220v. You might be able to push 30 amps.

For such a low amp rating, you for sure want to use both legs of the wire, so you have 2 110v circuts. Or one weak 220v one.

After all, you alrady have the 3 wires burried - why not use them????? ?

If you only used one hot wire for 110v, you would only have 15 amps out there. hardly worth bothering with.

According to that same vdc, if the run is only 50 feet long, that same #2 wire could handle a 200 amp draw. That surprises me.

Distance makes a big difference.

--->Paul

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buickanddeere

11-17-2006 18:15:16




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 Re: OT: Barn Electric in reply to Kent in KC, 11-17-2006 07:50:11  
#2 aluminum over 400ft? That makes a 30Amp 240V service about the largest legal. There should be a 30amp breaker at the supply end of that 400ft run. With a 200amp supply and a dead short 400+ feet from the utility transformer. Odds are the insulation will melt and smoke before the fuse blows on the utility transformer. Two 10ft ground rods driven full depth and at least 10 ft apart will be required. And at least #6 awg bare copper to connect them together and to the remote panel's ground lug. The remote panel will have to have the bond screw removed between the ground and neutral bars. Otherwise VD on the neutral will energize everything connected to the grounds. As previously stated, one would never consider just a 120V service. I've seen "certified" electricians who where not qualified to change a U-ground receptacle.

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Kent in KC

11-17-2006 12:48:46




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 Re: OT: Barn Electric in reply to Kent in KC, 11-17-2006 07:50:11  
Thank you, gentlemen.

Some answers to some of the questions:
My electrician specced the #2. It is three conductors, plus I (he) will drive a ground rod at the barn.



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jdemaris

11-17-2006 16:06:37




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 Doesn't make sense to me in reply to Kent in KC, 11-17-2006 12:48:46  
I guess I don't understand, especially if you've been advised by an electrician. As far as code goes, the breaker needs to trip before the wire melts - so for that, #2 cable protected by a 100 amp breaker is safe. The code though, doesn't care much about voltage drop and stuff than won't run right. A 400 foot one-way run of #2 aluminum cable will have a large loss if close to 100 amps is every drawn on it. Over 6%. And you did say 100 amps, correct? #2 cable makes no sense. Most power companies will not permit any run over 150' with #2 aluminum because of the loss. And, you had at first mentioned 120 VAC?? That's even worse. Even figuring with a high but acceptible voltage loss of 3%, a 400 foot one-way run for 220VAC at 100 amps needs either #2 copper or 2/0 aluminum - not #2 aluminum. And, if it was only 120 VAC - it'd need 3/0 copper or 250 MCM. 120 VAC at 100 amps and a 3% drop can go about 110 feet max. Check the math yourself, there are wire-size calculators all over, e.g. Link

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doogdoog

11-18-2006 00:35:51




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 Re: Doesn't make sense to me in reply to jdemaris, 11-17-2006 16:06:37  
Aloha, We used to run a lot of 250mcm cable from our 48v batt. to our 48v power supply racks in the telephone exchange. That is a very large cable and and very expensive and about an inch in diam. I wonder how much 3 runs of that at 400ft would cost.

Mahalo,
doogdoog



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jdemaris

11-18-2006 06:09:41




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 Re: Doesn't make sense to me in reply to doogdoog, 11-18-2006 00:35:51  
I don't consider it feasible myself. In regard to running an underground service 400', all that was needed was spending a few more bucks for the correct size cable and using 220 VAC. I cannot imagine why a qualified electrician would recomment #2 aluminum for a 400' 100 amp sercive. In regard to 48 volt systems, I've had that issue here. I've got a 48 volt, DC, 5500 watt solar array that as originally going to be 400 a foot run to my house. Running it all in one cable was not feasible. One option was a bunch of separate DC strings - but since 48 VDC is the highest my inverter can use, it would not work well running that long of a distance. Each solar panel is 175 watts and 24 volts, so I could of run multiple 48 VDC, 14 amp strings and MANY wires. That's why many solar arrays now use inverters that can run at 600 VDC instead of 48 VDC. Problem is - those systems are for grid-tie systems that will not work without grid-power. My system can work both ways. I also could of installed the battery bank outside with the solar panels and eliminate the DC run to the house. With the inverter plus booster outputting 480 VAC at 110 amps, the run would work with 2/0 aluminum. I decided the heck with it, and spent the past summer escavating the side of a mountain - in order to create a site for the solar array closer to the house. It's now at 140' instead of 400'. It still needs 4/0 aluminum at 120 VAC, or 1/0 at 240 VAC.

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John T

11-17-2006 15:40:51




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 Re: OT: Barn Electric in reply to Kent in KC, 11-17-2006 12:48:46  
Kent, Again, its NOT that No 2 was incorrectly specified, its that for such a longgggg gg 400 foot run voltage could (depends on current draw) pose a problem and I would have used a couple sizes larger to eliminate any such problem. Its one thing to run maybe 50 to 100 or even 200 feet of cable, but at 400 feet one must consider things OTHER THEN the standard NEC ampacity ratings. It can still work fine if theres no big loads and still work for 240 volt as you asked.

Best wishes

John T

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jdemaris

11-17-2006 11:47:11




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 Re: OT: Barn Electric in reply to Kent in KC, 11-17-2006 07:50:11  
#2 Aluminum is awful small wire for a 400' run. I don't know what type of wire you have - USE maybe? 70 amps is probably the safe limit - for ampacity and voltage drop.
220 VAC is allowed here in New York for triplex and a farm building separate from the main service panel, it just needs it's own ground system. But buried #2 aluminum is, more-or-less equal to #4 copper. A 200 foot run, buried, at the usual 2% voltage drop, is rated for 70 amps. So, a 400' run is rated at approx. a 4% voltage drop at 70 amps.

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TimS in Mo

11-17-2006 09:44:07




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 Re: OT: Barn Electric in reply to Kent in KC, 11-17-2006 07:50:11  
Kent, how many conductors did they bury? If you have two and plan on using the ground out there for the equipment ground, I don"t think you can safely do 240 v without another conductor.

You really should have 3, two hot and one neutral, if you are going to use 240 v and 120 v devices and I ran 4 so I could tie the ground back to the ground at the house.



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John T

11-17-2006 08:40:34




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 Re: OT: Barn Electric in reply to Kent in KC, 11-17-2006 07:50:11  
Kent, First of all, if I was gonna run any sort of an electrical service to a remote Pole Building THERES NO WAY I WOULD ONLY PROVIDE A 120 VOLT SERVICE..... ..... .ESPECIALLY if you already have sufficient conductors..... ..

Consider upgrades using 240 volt motors for like a small compressor or a 240 volt welder so they only draw ONE HALF as much current and theres less voltage drop in that long wire run.....

THAT BEING SAID, but depending on the current draw, and based upon a 400 foot wire run, that No. 2 aluminum you chose is smaller then I would have recommended so as to lessen voltage drop across the 400 feet of cable. Thats NOT to say it wont work, its just to say at high current draw the lines voltage drop could become a problematic issue on bigger motor loads.

REGARDLESS OF ANY VOLTAGE DROP CONCERNS, if you run both phases out there (A & B) for 240 volts but balance individual 120 volt loads the best you can (some loads on Phase A the others on Phase B) you will reduce the Neutral return current WHICH IS A DEFINITE POSITIVE. If theres the same pure resistive load (at same phase angle etc) on both phases of 120 volts, there wouldnt be any Neutral current YAYYYYY YYYY

YES that wire will handle 240 volts, it would have one leg like Phase A red on one conductor and the other Phase B black on the other with the common bare/white conductor serving as the Neutral return current path. SUBJECT TO DISCLAIMER BELOW CONCERNING 3 VERSUS 4 CONDUCTORS

Sooooo oooo Id definitely run 240 volts out there..... ..Id use 240 volt motors or welders wherever possible,,,,, ,,Voltage Drop could (depends on load amps) be a problem.

You can go to Dave Holts or other electrical websites to plug in the wire size and length in feet and the amperage to determine voltage drop if necessary, but if you already have that wire buried you can, of course, go ahead and use it for a 120/240 volt service (depending n subject to load amps and voltage drop) just rememebr 240 volt loads will only draw half the current and reduce voltage drop..... .....

DISCLAIMER Im too rusty on the NEC (long retired) n too lazy to look up the rules regarding services to remote agricultural buildings regarding any necessity for four versus only three conductors from your main service panel to that remote location (if you run 240 volts) PLUS around here with pole buildings having concrete floors we have to use GFI receptacles!!!!! ! BE ADVISED N FOREWARNED

John T (LOng retired electrical engineer)

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Paul in On

11-17-2006 09:03:48




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 Re: OT: Barn Electric in reply to John T, 11-17-2006 08:40:34  
You don't have one of those websites handy do you?



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John T

11-17-2006 09:19:17




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 Re: OT: Barn Electric in reply to Paul in On, 11-17-2006 09:03:48  
Ive gotten to it somewhere off a Link on Mikes site

http://www.mikeholt.com/index.php?id=homegeneral



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RustyFarmall

11-17-2006 08:36:41




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 Re: OT: Barn Electric in reply to Kent in KC, 11-17-2006 07:50:11  
I buried #2 a distance of 80 feet to the house for 200 amp service. Buried a second #2 for a distance of about 90 feet to the shop with 100 amp service where I am using a 220 volt air compressor, 220 volt wire welder, and a 220 volt stick welder. Never have any trouble.



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Gerald J.

11-17-2006 12:15:36




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 Re: OT: Barn Electric in reply to RustyFarmall, 11-17-2006 08:36:41  
#2 is way too small for 200 amp loads. So far you have never loaded it. When you do, you will find low voltage and hot wires and will have to do that buried run all over again with the right sized wire.

You don't have 200 amp service, its limited by the wires to 50 amp service.

Gerald J.



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massey333

11-17-2006 16:25:29




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 Re: OT: Barn Electric in reply to Gerald J., 11-17-2006 12:15:36  
I believe there is a Number problem here by leaving the /0 off.2/0 alum is the correct wire for 200 Amp.service.That is ALL the elect.cos.use for Underground service.All I use is 4/0 but the electric Co.use 2/0.



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RustyFarmall

11-17-2006 14:08:23




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 Re: OT: Barn Electric in reply to Gerald J., 11-17-2006 12:15:36  
The #2 was specified by a certified licensed electrician, as was the 200 amp entrance box. I verified the recommendations with 2 other electricians whom were also more than qualified to give the correct answer. The system works, and has given no trouble in about 7 years.



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paul

11-17-2006 21:39:03




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 Re: OT: Barn Electric in reply to RustyFarmall, 11-17-2006 14:08:23  
You get real hard on electric motors if you draw more than 125amp or so on your system. Likely such over-draws are real brief startup loads, and the system will work, but you are a bit light on that 200 amp setup.

--->Paul



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John T

11-17-2006 15:56:18




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 Re: OT: Barn Electric in reply to RustyFarmall, 11-17-2006 14:08:23  
Rusty, I gotta agree with my old engineering buddy Gerald on this one. According to my Uglys Electrical reference data the ampacity of No 2 aluminum THWN or XHHW insulated conductors even in free air (youre buried) at 30 degrees C is ONLY 135 amps sooooo ooooo ooooo o No 2 is wayyyyy yyyyy under ampacity if its fuzed way up at 200 amps YIKESSSSS SSSSS SSS

The No 2 is more of a common size for a 100 amp,,,,, ,, NOT a 200 amp service.

Thats NOT to say it dont work fine provided youre NOT pulling any big loads buttttt ttttt if you try to continually draw 200 amps on those No 2 conductors youre gonna eventually experience a meltdown lol Sure its not just a 100 amp service????? ????? ? Its hard to believe any competent electrician would have only used 100 amp rated feeder conductors on a 200 amp service ????? ????

PS maybe you have a 200 amp panelboard but its just fuzed/circuit breaker protected at 100 amps !!!!! !!!!! cuz I just dont see how they would have tried to provide 200 amps of service
with only 100 amps worth of wire !!!!! !

John T Long retired EE

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RustyFarmall

11-18-2006 07:43:54




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 Re: OT: Barn Electric in reply to John T, 11-17-2006 15:56:18  
And just how do you propose that I will ever draw a continous 200 amps in the house? Or even a continous 100 amps? There is nothing in a house that will draw that much current, even if all the appliances started up at the same exact instant.



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dan hill

11-23-2006 02:14:02




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 Re: OT: Barn Electric in reply to RustyFarmall, 11-18-2006 07:43:54  
Few of us could even pay the bill if we drew 200 amps for long periods.It would take 8 Lincoln 225 welders running at full output to draw 200 amps



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old

11-17-2006 08:23:10




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 Re: OT: Barn Electric in reply to Kent in KC, 11-17-2006 07:50:11  
Go with the 220 in the long run you will be better off as Bob says plus in the future when you find you need it then its there.



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Lloyd Llama

11-17-2006 08:10:51




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 Re: OT: Barn Electric in reply to Kent in KC, 11-17-2006 07:50:11  
Sooner or later, you"re going to want 220 out there for something... Might as well run it in now as retrofitting later means more work. Check the printing on the insulatinon on your wire, surely if you look far enough, you"ll see a voltage rating, and as long as you don"t exceed that, you"re OK.



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Bob

11-17-2006 08:07:33




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 Re: OT: Barn Electric in reply to Kent in KC, 11-17-2006 07:50:11  
By having 240 Volts at the remote location, the various 120 Volt loads get spread out over the two 120 Volt "legs", reducing the current load on each "HOT" wire, and "balancing" the neutral load.



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