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Septic

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JDB

08-28-2006 07:12:03




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Think I know where the end of my septic field is. There is a spot that is always wet and funky smelling. It isn't bubbling or running out just continually muddy and this is not in a low spot either. Have I got a problem?




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buickanddeere

08-28-2006 15:49:35




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 Re: Septic in reply to JDB, 08-28-2006 07:12:03  
Dumping some dye in the commode will show seapage if it's happening. The previous owners had trouble here. The seven weeping runs are gravel then top soil backfilled over tile in impervious clay. The only way out for moisture is up. I ran a trench along four feet from the 1st weeping run to catch yard/driveway run off before it ran and sat ontop of the weeping beds. The run off trench is tiled and backfilled to the top with drainage stone. The salt brine from the water softener and the laundry water now goes to a separate grey water drain. One of these days the upstairs bathtub/shower is getting re-routed to the grey drain as well. Been fine for three years but I'm not about to go bragging either.

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JDB

08-28-2006 12:35:01




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 Re: Septic in reply to JDB, 08-28-2006 07:12:03  
Thank you for the replies everyone. Place is only 5 years old and I'm the second owner. Think I'll start by calling previous owner and find out where the septic field is. Drain tile from a terrace runs through the same area as the wet spot. I have been told an older field drain line also runs through there. I am hopeful one of them is the problem



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Easy1

08-28-2006 11:00:48




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 Re: Septic in reply to JDB, 08-28-2006 07:12:03  
I fixed mine last year. I used sock tile and hired a trencher guy. He had done this many times. I looked up the same website as Stan.



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JDknut

08-28-2006 09:09:55




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 Re: Septic in reply to JDB, 08-28-2006 07:12:03  
yip. it is not supposed to daylight anywhere. The field may be overloaded, in need of a rest, ground water too high, etc. If in need of a rest this is often due to bacterial slime plugging up the leach lines and the pores in the surrounding gravel. Sometimes you can get it going by first pumping out the septic tank and then introducing a healthy dose of bleach downstream of the distribution box to flood the tired leach lines. But if it is due to high water or just plain overtloading, then you're lookin' at a new system. .

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paul

08-28-2006 08:49:28




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 Re: Septic in reply to JDB, 08-28-2006 07:12:03  
Many states have severe rules & laws, you can't even work on your own septic any more; you need to replace anything not working with a mound system.

So, depending where you live, you can have real problems.

A septic liquifies 99% of the stuff going into it in the tank, and the fluid goes out into the lines and soaks away. However most grease (fat) floats to the top and all dirt, lint, and other non-digestable bits settle to the bottom of the tank.

You don't ever, ever want the grease or the dirt to build up to where it flows out to the drain lines. This will plug your drain lines real quick, & your septic is done for. There is no way to clean out the drain lines effectively.

Now, some folks can live simple lives & have a big tank & their tank doesn't need pumping in 25 years..... Others do 6 loads of laundry a day, lots of grease & stuff down the kitchen sink, and need the tank pumped every 2 years or they will wreck (fill) it.

Your drain lines aren't quite right. I'd sure look into pumping the dirt & grease out of the tank, & check if something simple (or major) is wrong with the tank lines & connections. Perhaps your distribution box is messed up, only feeding one line. Or the like.

Spending the money on that now can save you a $10,000 mound system sometimes. Waiting & just hope things keep working can compund a simple problem, & plug up your lines. Then you need to start over.

--->Paul

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Tx Jim

08-29-2006 03:47:20




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 What's a Mound system? in reply to paul, 08-28-2006 08:49:28  
Never heard of that in Tx.Thanks,Jim



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paul

08-29-2006 15:48:44




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 Re: What's a Mound system? in reply to Tx Jim, 08-29-2006 03:47:20  
On clay soils that don't perk, you put your tank down, dump a few loads of gravel into a pile on top, put in the drain lines on the downslopes of the mound. Pump water out of the tank with electric pump whenever the float says it's full.

Sounds like an ok thing, until you add up the cost of the electric line, pump, motor, the odds of the float sticking, the fact that the drain lines need to be less than a foot from the surface and we get frost to below 4 feet up here, and that you can't legally work on your own septic only licenced folks which of course jacked up all costs of any septic work.

Then, it seems to turn into a useless money pit.

There is more to it, you can't just use any old gravel, etc. But, that's the basics.

--->Paul

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John T

08-28-2006 08:31:42




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 Re: Septic in reply to JDB, 08-28-2006 07:12:03  
JDB, Back in the days of stepper box finger distribution septic fields and a continually lower level distribution box for each finger (I have 5 boxes n 5 fingers, each one lower then the other), once all fingers were saturated mine would perk up at the end of the last finger during wet periods like spring n fall. Now in our county all the fingers and distribution boxes are level.

In the meantime for the short run I would have the tank pupmed if I were you and it hasnt been done in a while n cross your fingers. Around here this one dude pressure injects pellets of some sort in the drain finger fields which some claim helps them perk better???

Enemies of septic systems are grease n lint which dont decompose correct so my clothes washer n kitchen sink dont drain in my field and its still working after 26 years n raised 3 kids so that musta helped.

John T (Full of it lol)

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IaGary

08-28-2006 07:29:46




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 Re: Septic in reply to JDB, 08-28-2006 07:12:03  
If your lines are level there should not be wettness at the end of the lines.

If the lines run downhill I see how all liquid could run to the end rather than being absorb into the ground along the way.

I would open my tank and see if sluge is down to the outflow pipe or above it.

It doesn't sound good to have a wet spot at the end of your septic field.

Gary



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SJ

08-28-2006 09:38:16




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 Re: Septic in reply to IaGary, 08-28-2006 07:29:46  
Had the same problem.Sorry to say it dont look good bud.You might be able to save it with some of the above suggestions,which I did in the past.But sooner or later it all caught up.Had to put in a new leech bed.I was very fortunate though.Put it in my self.Very slack rules in my county(I think)lol,no one said anything yet and I live quite a ways off the road.I guess there could be a problem down the road maybey if I sell this place with no permits and such.But I aint gonna worry bout it as I plan on dying here.
Anyways it cost me bout 2k,I got 5-40ft lines of them triangle shape black things(forgot what they are called)and a new D-box.500 of that was for the backhoe and the rest was for materials and stone. My lawns been great ever since.Probably have to put in a new tank down the road,I still have one of them old round steel ones.Heres a great site I used
www.eco-nomic.com/septic.htm
Good Luck
Stan

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Ken Macfarlane

08-28-2006 11:50:44




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 Re: Septic in reply to SJ, 08-28-2006 09:38:16  
If one of the lines continually gets flooded the bacteria will die off as they can't get air. Once they die the sludge in the pipe and stone isn't digested anymore so the flooding gets worse and worse yet the nasty stuff isn't being broken down before surfacing.

On a drainfield this can happen progressivly starting at the lowest branch to the highest (ie where the most water goes) often a ruinest drainfield can be revived by just letting it set a few years.

Fats and lint are the number one enemy of septic fields as said above but most towns won't let grey water from your washer leave to a dry well.

Many people think soap from a washer hurts but the old phosphate soaps can help bacteria bloom if it isn't too concentrated.

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