Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

Stopping a gas leak on the sediment bowl

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Gord

08-25-2006 17:03:55




Report to Moderator

He, do you guys have any ideas on how to stop a leak on my sediment bowl for my Super W-4? It is leaking on the threaded hole where the copper line screws into. The gas isn"t leaking around the copper but the threads. Any ideas? Thanks




[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Jon C - Florida

08-26-2006 04:38:49




Report to Moderator
 Re: Stopping a gas leak on the sediment bowl in reply to Gord, 08-25-2006 17:03:55  
Maybe you are focusing on the wrong part of the connection. I have had threaded cast parts leak where the lines connect, thinking it was the brass or copper connection or the threads. It wasn"t...it was the cast part that had a hair line crack. No matter what you did it would still leak. Might try looking very very closly at the the cast hole in the bowl where the fitting threads into.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Ken L.

08-26-2006 04:37:24




Report to Moderator
 Re: Stopping a gas leak on the sediment bowl in reply to Gord, 08-25-2006 17:03:55  
Had the same problem on my Oliver 60. I bought two new compression fittings, one for the carb and one for the sediment bowl, and a new piece of copper tubing. Cost less than six dollars. Now everything is new and there are no leaks.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
davpal

08-26-2006 00:41:41




Report to Moderator
 Re: Stopping a gas leak on the sediment bowl in reply to Gord, 08-25-2006 17:03:55  
Take the old fuel line off and go to the auto parts store and get a brand new pre formed brake line with the correct threads and bend it into a brand new line. These are very nice for doing this and you can almost always find exactly the right length you need. You will have two factory perfect nuts and flares for the carb and sediment bulb and your problem will be solved. You can put all the pipe dope or teflon tape on you want and it will still leak. It is a compression fitting that is made with a flare and is not intended to seal with sealer. I have done a few of these on 9n fords and it works great and only costs about two dollars. Good luck.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Driz

08-25-2006 22:56:09




Report to Moderator
 Re: Stopping a gas leak on the sediment bowl in reply to Gord, 08-25-2006 17:03:55  
For a quick and permanent repair try getting it dry and smearing some of that black gooey stuff they mount the widshield into your car with. Its called window urethane and it stands up to anything. I use it to seal leaky gas cans and it lasts for years. You can find it in blister packs for repairs or by the caulking gun tube to mount windows. Only drawback is that it dries up in the tube pretty quick once opened. A similar but better material is GE 5200 Marine Sealant. It is used for sealing below the waterline on boats and has the same characteristics but it doesn't dry out.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Ol Chief

08-25-2006 21:14:00




Report to Moderator
 Re: Stopping a gas leak on the sediment bowl in reply to Gord, 08-25-2006 17:03:55  
I agree with KEB.Sounds like you need to replace the brass compression ring to have a solid mechanical repair.Ifyour line is really copper and you do not wish to replace it with new ,you can anneal the original line very easily.However then it will be necessary to replace both of the compression rings.Simply cut off both rings and remove the compression nuts. Place the old line an a suitable surface to heat same.You may only have a piese of steel if firebrick is not available.Then slowly and verrrry carefully warm up the line to near red heat. When you reach that point dump it into a bucket of cold waier. If you have done this correctly your line will be soft and free of the result of work hardening which is a result of age and vibration.Take care to not melt the copper first experiment with a piece of scrap copper to get the hang of this operation.Flush the line with water and compressed air and reassemble.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
KEB

08-25-2006 17:55:05




Report to Moderator
 Re: Stopping a gas leak on the sediment bowl in reply to Gord, 08-25-2006 17:03:55  
As I recall, those are compression fittings, and all the threads do is hold the fitting together. The actual seal is where the compression ring meets the fitting, not like a pipe thread where the seal is made by the threads themselves.

Check the compression ring or the taper in the fitting that it fits into for rough edges or distortion. It should be easy enough to cut the end off & replace the compression ring if needed. I've never had any success trying to seal a compression fitting (or a flare fitting, for that matter) with pipe dope, silicon, etc. Teflon tape definitely won't work as its designed to seal threads, not compression rings.

Also, I'd replace the pipe if it really is copper. Copper is pretty soft and is prone to work hardening & cracking when subjected to vibration. Even rubber fuel hose is better than copper.

Keith

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
MARK RED OR GREEN

08-25-2006 17:05:54




Report to Moderator
 Re: Stopping a gas leak on the sediment bowl in reply to Gord, 08-25-2006 17:03:55  
TRY TEFLON TAPE ON THE THREADS



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Gord

08-25-2006 17:09:22




Report to Moderator
 Re: Stopping a gas leak on the sediment bowl in reply to MARK RED OR GREEN, 08-25-2006 17:05:54  
Thanks. I tried that but the gas ate through it. I am trying some gasket gunk right now but I wanted to see if anyone else had ideas.

Thanks



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
MARK RED OR GREEN

08-25-2006 17:13:59




Report to Moderator
 Re: Stopping a gas leak on the sediment bowl in reply to Gord, 08-25-2006 17:09:22  
THEY MAKE A PIPE DOPE THAT WE USE CALLED BLUE BLOCK GET IT FROM A PLUMBING SUPPLY HOUSE OR THEY WILL HAVE SOMTHING LIKE THIS THAT GAS WILL NOT EAT AND IT STAYS SOFT BLUE BLOCK IS MADE BY HERCULES AT WWW.HERCHEM.COM



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Gord

08-25-2006 20:07:34




Report to Moderator
 Re: Stopping a gas leak on the sediment bowl in reply to MARK RED OR GREEN, 08-25-2006 17:13:59  
Thanks a lot guys. I will try those ideas.

Cheers



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy