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question for you guys

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Tim Shultz

07-20-2006 06:33:50




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hey... I was thinking about taking my 73" ford to the county fair here week after next, to the tractor pull, just for fun.. see what the old girls got.. I was reading the last owners notes from when HE took it to truck pulls, here are his notes..
3/4 tank fuel and some tools. 6 old style JD weights. 25 PSI rear. 30 PSI front. steel acrossed rear springs so no give while pull. clevis 23 inches from ground. placed 5th. first and second where mod. trucks.
now my questions are, how much weight would 6 old style JD weights be? and when he said steel acrossed the springs, whats that all about? I know what for.. but how do you rig it up? any idea? I want to have it as close to what he had it as possible.. he pulled in thew 1,500 stock class.. in 1975, 76",77".. how much weight would he be pulling? THANKS FOR THE HELP!

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Jonfarmer

07-20-2006 13:18:33




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 Re: question for you guys in reply to Tim Shultz, 07-20-2006 06:33:50  
I don't know about the weight Tim. You should find out the rules of the pull. We have a pickup pull at the local field days, they always weigh the truck, so you should find out what the maximum weight allowed for the stock class is and use whatever to get it up to the maximum allowed weight since right now your truck is probably quite bit lighter than a new truck with a 4dr crew cab. You should also find out what the maximum allowed hitch height is, and go as high as you can there. Keeping the springs from sinking would give you an advantage, so you wouldn't lose hitch height, and the sled will pull down harder on the back of your truck. Careful though, every year some of the pickups break in the pull, especialy the older ones, they are not tractors, and are meant to pull rolling loads only, so don't be surprised if you have to bring it home on a flatbed. I hate to think of the whoopin your trucks going to get from one of the new Hemi Dodges, them have really good power, well, 345hp to be exact and you couple that with an automatic transmission that can gain speed by shifting down the track and gaining momentum while reducing friction which is somthing your standard shift truck can't do. Now things have really really changed since the 70's when he was pulling, now there are alot more powerful engines, shift kits for automatic transmissions, electronic locking differantials, etc... Hate to rain on your parade but don't get your hopes up too much, and just do it for fun. Now, if you want to make a winner out of it, you can make some upgrades from aftermarket parts vendors. You can put front and rear locking differantials into your old truck, including those that you flip a switch in the cab and it positivly locks your differantials, or you can go with a limited slip design, which you'd probably like better for playing around the rest of the year, since the type you engauge with switch keeps it open the rest of the time, so unless you want to flip that switch from a stand still everytime, you will get one wheel peels. Yeah you can upgrade the motor, but thats apt to put you into the modified class up against all the radically modified vehicles. You'd be alot better off to get rid of that 4spd standard and go with a stout automatic with a shift kit in it, so you could shift it exactly when and where you want it, think of it like a standard shift that has an auto clutch, big advantage there.

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massey333

07-20-2006 14:44:38




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 Re: question for you guys in reply to Jonfarmer, 07-20-2006 13:18:33  
You had better read the rules carefully,all of the STREET STOCK trucks MUST be lic.,proof of ins,no BLOCKED SPRINGS,driven not trailered to pull.Jon,As far as the autos.,The stock torque converters won't take it,when the truck POWERS OUT(STALLS) at the end,the standards may break a U-joint but very seldom power out with the same engine.8000 or 8500Lbs. stock class,more autos. than stan.go out Broken

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IaGary

07-20-2006 07:02:17




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 Re: question for you guys in reply to Tim Shultz, 07-20-2006 06:33:50  
Tim measure the distance between the axle and the frame.

Find a piece of steel that width or around here most guys just use a wooden 6x6 about 42" long and tie it in across the frame between the frame and axle. In other words parallel to the axle.

Much better ride if you put it in at the pull site.

Gary



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Tim shultz

07-20-2006 07:46:31




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 Re: question for you guys in reply to IaGary, 07-20-2006 07:02:17  
hey, would I need to use one long 6X6? or would two smaller blocks work as well? somthings telling me that they won't... thanks! Tim



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IaGary

07-20-2006 11:55:59




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 Re: question for you guys in reply to Tim shultz, 07-20-2006 07:46:31  
One long one would be easier to hold in place,but two short ones will work if you can get them to stay in place.

Gary



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IaGary

07-20-2006 07:07:40




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 Re: question for you guys in reply to IaGary, 07-20-2006 07:02:17  
Forgot to say make sure it hits on the springs and not the pumpkin.

Might need to be a bit longer than 42"

Gary



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Mike M

07-20-2006 07:00:21




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 Re: question for you guys in reply to Tim Shultz, 07-20-2006 06:33:50  
When I weighed my old style JD rear wheel weights they were about 132 lbs. each.



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Tim shultz

07-20-2006 07:42:45




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 Re: question for you guys in reply to Mike M, 07-20-2006 07:00:21  
I think these where front weights... not sure though.
Tim Shultz



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