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I am familiar with the assembly to an extent, it's likely not much different than the dry clutch on my D7 which is currently on the bench. Being a 9U and not an oil clutch, leaves 2 types I think, the earlier type with an adjusting collar & clutch brake, and the later ball bearing release mechanism, no clutch brake, just a newer release mechanism. This is an educated guess as to the type, the book for a 9U may say different, but I am doubtful of that. Taking for granted that the D6 9U's with dry clutch's ought to be similar to others like my D7's, it would still be a good idea to get both the serviceman's reference book and parts catalog for the serial number of your tractor. It was manufactured from 1947 to 1959 and was a very popular and durable design, exception being dry clutches being the only weak area, meaning they performed well, but probably required more service and replacing a lot sooner than the later oil type which made the later direct drive tractors better and were considered to be bulletproof. For someone using one of these dry types for weekend use, don't think you'll wear one out if you take care of it especially after an overhaul. Just some additional info, back to the question. See if you can locate the serial number of the tractor, back side lower left or left side rear of engine block. I'm not sure if the early type clutch release mechanism was ever used in the 9U, so I'll guess that yours is the later ball bearing type. From what you describe, there is excessive play in the mechanism somewhere, check your lever linkage's, adjust those and see if that eliminates any slack,(this may be and probably is the cause) . Check your pressure plate friction surfaces to see if they are worn to the rivets, I'm not sure how far the adjusting hub/collar allows you to adjust up, but that is another area to check, pull the inspection cover off and see what the friction segments look like on the 2 pressure plates. The adjusting hub/collar, seems to be the only other part that would cause this slack problem. Could be the nut and deflector between the release collar and retainer. That nut has a set screw, and the book calls for the nut to be securely tightened. ( definitely need a look at the photo in the book, you'll see how this works ). This applies for the later ball bearing type release mechanism. With another person on the lever, operate the clutch lever and observe the mechanism, you might spot the problem. Not knowing for sure what is actually in your particular tractor, I may be totally incorrect here, just that I'm thinking they are likely to be more similar than not. However, this assembly seems to be common to the larger tractors, and either type has the adjusting hub/collar, so either the friction material on the pressure plate is worn beyond tolerance, lever and linkages need adjustment or the adjusting mechanism has play in it, because when properly adjusted, the lever will have a crisp "snap over center" action to it. Looking at the assembly, it seems evident that it is a fairly simple design and if need be, just pull it out and examine the components, it's not that bad of a job, actually and may be necessary to repair it, especially if you cannot resolve the problem from above. Another F.Y.I. on these: The pilot bearing on the driven plate is something that needs regular lubrication through a grease zerk, and the correct type of grease ( some sort of high temperature, would have to look that up). Keep an eye on the condition of the thermal "drive links" (black in color and made of some sort of heavy duty 1/4" thick fabric sections) these are around the outside of the driven plate and connect the flywheel to the driven plate. You want to note the condition of these, if the pilot bearing is let run dry, it will fail, oval out the center of the driven plate causing excessive vertical play, and those links will eventually take the slack and start to fail, rubbing against the bellhousing, making a lot of heat and smoke ( been there done that LOL ! ) Useful links: Link
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