ground fault, what am I doing wrong?

Thanks Mike

Heres how I use a simple test lamp to find major shorts, however, if the short is very minor and high impedance there may be insufficient current draw to lite the lamp, in which case a meter would be more accurate. The test lamp is the type with a wire and alligator clip on one end and a sharp needle probing tip at the lamp end.

Remove the hot ungrounded battery cable from the battery post,,,,, ,,attach the wire and alligator clamp end of the test lamp to the hot ungrounded battery post,,,,, ,,NOWWWWW WW with the other sharp end of the lamp youre looking for a ground return path which (short to ground) will lite the lamp when you probe to it with that sharp probe end of the test lamp,,,,, ,,,,probe by touching the sharp end to various wiring and switch input terminals (such as the BAT input terminal on the switch) and when youre at a point that has a connection to ground which lites the lamp, you found a ground fault. If you find a point that lites the lamp that has more then one wire to it, disconnect the wires one at a time until you isolate which circuit has the path to ground. Locations such as tractor lights etc will make the lamp glow cuz that represents a circuit to frame gtound, however, if a switch is good and off and works, a probe to the BAT input side of a switch SHOULD NOT glow the lamp unless the switch is bad or has an internal short. Remember with this test the hot ungrounded battery cable has been removed but its ground cable is still connected to frame ground, therefore, there should be no voltage on any tractor wiring locations/terminals, its paths to frame ground youre probing for that cause the lamp to glow since one lead is on the hot ungrounded battery terminal and the other probe lead needs a frame ground return path to lite the lamp.

Clear as mud????? ?

John T

Mike

The test light you are using PROBABLY has a bulb that draws more current than your "leak", so it will not light.

A MILLIAMETER will work, so long as you do not hit the stater button, or put any other heavy load on the system, which will (at the very least), blow the fuse in the meter.

Or, find a small 12-Volt "instrument bulb", or "grain of wheat bulb" with very low current draw, that will light from the current leakage problem you're having.

Totaly disconnect the wires from your "wonder alternator" (tape the wires for safety), and let it sit the length of time it takes to drain the batteries, and see what happens. If it's better, you need to deal with the alternator.

(Oh, and did I mention I HATE "one wire" alternators? They are easy to hook up for those who won't do their "homework", and learn how to wire up a standard GM alternator, at the expense of the potential for the problem you are having, and others. The 10SI one-wire alternators are an aftermarket abomination, and were NEVER made in that form by GM/DELCO.)

Here is all that is needed to hook up a standard alternator... a length of wire and a diode. (1N5008 is a good choice.)

The wire from the diode goes to a power source that comes on with the key. Or, you can use the original dash-mounted "idiot light" in place of the diode.

If it turns out the alternator is not causing your problem, the ignition switch may be full of damp, conductive, dirt and crud.

In most cases,the "one wire" alternator will work the same as a stock "3wire" alternator,so no need to replace the alternator or regulator if it is in good working order.The last box of "1 wire" regulators I bought had instructions saying that if you wanted the alternator to excite at lower rpm,or wanted a gen indicator light,to hook it to the #1 terminal which normally has nothing connected to it on a "1 wire" alternator. just buy an alternator regulator plug replacement kit from an auto parts store for about $2 and connect the #1 wire to the JD gen light wire in the stock harness. It is your option to also connect the #2 regulator wire as shown in Bob's post,the "1 wire" regulator does not need it,but If you ever replace that special "1 wire" regulator with a stock one,then the #2 wire needs to be in place. The only difference between a stock 10SI Delco and a "1 wire" conversion alternator,is the regulator.

The "1 wire" alternators have their place where the exciter wiring would be a problem to install,and a volt or amp guage is in place to indicate charge. One tip that helps on a "1 wire" alternator conversion where it does not turn the alternator fast enough for an easy light off,is to use as small an amp output alternator as will carry the electrical load. A "1 wire" alternator with the 27 amp stator installed will excite at aprox 1/2 the rpm of a 61 or 72 amp stator/alternator.