Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

Water Well Problems UPDATE

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
john in la

12-28-2005 19:19:51




Report to Moderator

Thanks for the help Guys. I think we got it fixed now.

To answer some of the questions raised before.....
My well is 225' deep but is considered a shallow well because the water sits in the well pipe 4' below the ground.
We hit water several times on the way down but kept digging to get to good water. (Remember I am only 10' above sea level)
I can not use a submergible pump because I have a 2" well.

Pump was loosing prime and sucking air.
Things I found..... ..... .

I was sucking straight off the 2" well casing. Was told this was normal in our area and could be done if your check valve and well casing was in good shape.

Pump was taking a long time in my mind (2 min+) to build up to 50 lbs pressure.

Took pump apart and found impeller was bad. Rather than just rebuilding pump we decided to replace the whole pump since elect motor is 25 years old. We bought a 1hp Sta-Rite.

Replaced all pipes in pump house and added a 1 1/4" drop pipe and foot valve into 2" well casing.

Run new pump with out hooking up tank and it pumps water as fast as pump will run. Shoots water 5' out of a 1" pipe. Pumping over 20 gals a min under no pressure so water quantity is there.

Checked tank and it is holding precharge air pressure so we used old tank again.

While I may have had a leak on the suction side I feel not because my check valve was holding. You could hear air running in well pipe as water was released when I took check valve off. It also had water sitting on top of it when taken apart.
I feel the pump impeller was my major problem and I just did not want to look at it because of the cost of repair. Trying to rule out all other things first.
I also feel the drop pipe I have added and raising the pump above the check valve will help prolong the life of my new pump.
Here
is a drawing of how I have the pump/well set up now.

So now $400 later we have all new in the pump house except the tank.
Now all I need to do is to rebuild the 4'x4' pump house. I decided to evicted all the mice; ants; and termites from there 25 year old house while I was at it.

Happy New Year
John

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Gary Schafer

12-29-2005 08:10:28




Report to Moderator
 Re: Water Well Problems UPDATE in reply to john in la, 12-28-2005 19:19:51  
Hi John,
Glad you got the well working. Sorry to have to tell you though that the check valve and foot valve are redundant. You could use either one like your set up is. Both are not needed.

You also did not need the 1 1/4 pipe down inside the 2" casing. Just using a 2" to 1 1/4 reducer at the well casing would have worked fine. As long as you have an air tight connection. Then to the check valve in the 1 1/4 line to the pump. This would accomplish the same thing.

One thing to watch with the setup that you now have is if there is an air leak at the 2" to 1 1/4 reducer, and your water level gets pumped down it may drop below the bottom of the 1 1/4 pipe and not pump, or pump some air.

In all the messing around getting my well to work properly I tried dropping a poly pipe down the casing to get around an air leak in one of the casing couplings. I have a sand point on 1 1/4 inch pipe. The pipe inside the 1 1/4 pipe would pull the water level down too far in the 1 1/4 pipe. Water would not run in the point fast enough. But once I got the leak in the joint fixed, hooking the pump directly to the pipe (with no poly pipe inside) would suck enough water through the point and the well worked fine.

Regards
Gary

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
john in la

12-29-2005 17:57:23




Report to Moderator
 Re: Water Well Problems UPDATE in reply to Gary Schafer, 12-29-2005 08:10:28  
check valve and foot valve are redundant
I know but I wanted to add a foot valve and had the check valve from before so I used both.

Just using a 2" to 1 1/4 reducer at the well casing would have worked fine
This is how it was set up when I was having problems so I tried something different this time.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
jdemaris

12-29-2005 06:29:43




Report to Moderator
 Re: Water Well Problems UPDATE in reply to john in la, 12-28-2005 19:19:51  
Here in New York a 6" casing is standard but a few old wells are 4". Mine was drilled in 1959 and 6" was the standard here at that time. Casing is put down however far it takes to reach solid rock/shale - usually around 30 feet. Unless I'm missing something, a 2" well casing has very little reserve since it takes over 6 feet of pipe to hold one gallon of water. That means your pump craps out after pumping around four-five gallons of water - unless your well has a high recovery rate. A shallow-well pump is usually good for 17-20 gallons per minute when it first kicks in if the water is only a few feet down. By the time it starts to get maxed out at 25 feet down, it will struggle to pump 7-9 gallons per minute at 40 PSI. Once it gets much deeper, it won't work. So, your reserve is gone in a little over a minute's time. This may not matter if you have a gusher of a well that recovers very fast. I've seen two inch wells in my area that were driven-point, not drilled. Often installed in the 2" casings are "deep well packer" kits used on those two inch casings along with deep-well jet pumps and they can yield four gallons per minute at 120 foot depth below ground at 50 PSI. I've seen 2" diameter submerged pumps - perhaps for situations like your's. They are usually DC. Instead of working on the principle of "a lot of water fast when needed", they pump small amounts over a longer period of time and often fill a high mounted tank that provides pressure by gravity. They are often used in solar-powered sytems. I was researching all this when drilling a well at a cabin I have in the Adirondacks where there is no grid power. I was going to insall a 2" solar powered submerged pump. But, after drilling a 250' deep well, it ended up being artisian and overflows at a pretty high rate. So, I wound up installing an underground 100 gallon storage tank, under the cabin with a float shut-off valve - all hooked to the well underground five feet below the frost line.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
john in la

12-29-2005 18:02:36




Report to Moderator
 Re: Water Well Problems UPDATE in reply to jdemaris, 12-29-2005 06:29:43  
Unless I'm missing something, a 2" well casing has very little reserve since it takes over 6 feet of pipe to hold one gallon of water

My well must be very be a gusher because when testing I ran a discharge pipe into the yard with no tank hooked up. I let it run for about 5 mins and it shot water 5' out a 1" pipe the whole time. Did not measure the water but I would say about 15 to 20 gals a min.
That is enough for my single family home + some.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
buickanddeere

12-28-2005 20:49:05




Report to Moderator
 Re: Water Well Problems UPDATE in reply to john in la, 12-28-2005 19:19:51  
Two inch dia well casing? By law it was four inch around here as a min and for the last 20+ years a five inch is minimum. Were you hitting brackish water, sulphur water, iron or what?



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
john in la

12-29-2005 03:58:59




Report to Moderator
 Re: Water Well Problems UPDATE in reply to buickanddeere, 12-28-2005 20:49:05  
Hitting bad tasting and sulpher/iron water.
I went on the advise of my well digger and taste.
He recommended to go 150+ ft.

Two of my neighbors went down 75 ft and stopped.
I told them what my well digger had said but they would no listen.
Both wells lasted about 18 months then the water turned nasty.
One has redug his well deeper.
The other only uses his well for bath water and such. He has one of those bottle water companies for drinking water.

Do not know what the min well casing size is now a days around here.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Keith-OR

12-28-2005 21:40:00




Report to Moderator
 Re: Water Well Problems UPDATE in reply to buickanddeere, 12-28-2005 20:49:05  
buickanddeere, here it is 6 inch casing, used to beable to drive sandpoint but they stopped that.All new wells have to be drilled with casing down at least 20 ft, cemented in....

Keith



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
rgv tx

12-28-2005 19:39:10




Report to Moderator
 Re: Water Well Problems UPDATE in reply to john in la, 12-28-2005 19:19:51  
third party image

Yep, sort of as I said on Christmas Day.....bad pump. What an awful day for it to happen though. I have to chuckle at your post as I too tore down the old pump house as it was eaten up with termites etc. I wanted to get mine done prior to winter which I did, even added a water softener while I was at it. The best part? The wife is happy. Can"t go wrong as long as she is happy!
Glad you are up and running once again, congratulations!
rgv tx
The pic is of my new well house..... not much, but it"s a million times better than the old one....and all the lower stuff is treated. Take that, termites.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
IaGary

12-29-2005 04:57:10




Report to Moderator
 Re: Water Well Problems UPDATE in reply to rgv tx, 12-28-2005 19:39:10  
|Must be nice to have pump on top of ground. Here in Ia we have to put pumps and tanks below ground in a pit to keep from freezing. And somtimes they still freeze. Just part of life up here.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
john in la

12-29-2005 18:17:07




Report to Moderator
 Re: Water Well Problems UPDATE in reply to IaGary, 12-29-2005 04:57:10  
Now Gary;
I need to make a point of taking a picture for you of my neighbors pump and tank next time it gets cold.
He has no well house. Pump and tank sit in middle of yard. He runs a extension cord out to the well with a light bulb and throws a blanket over it to keep it warm.
Many many like this in my area.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
rgv tx

12-29-2005 05:36:31




Report to Moderator
 Re: Water Well Problems UPDATE in reply to IaGary, 12-29-2005 04:57:10  
I agree, freezing weather isn't really an issue down here. Of course we have to deal with bugs year around and you don't. We have to mow grass year around, you don't. It's a give and take I suppose, but I just don't like cold weather and certainly not a fan of snow. Forecast today is sun and 79 degrees. That is why this time of year over 50% of the vehicles on the road have northern license plates, these folks have retired and run south for the winter. Of course they run back north in the spring as they don't seem to like our slightly warm summers.
By the way, the well house is not on a slab so I didn't insulate the walls. That just seems to draw more bugs. I did install a light fixture above the pump with a flood lamp bulb just in case we get a night or two down near freezing temps which does happen now and then.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
john in la

12-29-2005 18:12:41




Report to Moderator
 Re: Water Well Problems UPDATE in reply to rgv tx, 12-29-2005 05:36:31  
Now lets see..... ..... .
Bugs or freezing weather
Ride lawn mower or shovel snow
Drip faucet twice a year or insulate all pipes
Have a year round garden or permafrost

I pick the bugs every time.

My well house sits on a 4'x4'x4" slab so I insulate the house. I also have a light bulb.
All I need now is a thermostat that turns the light on and off as needed. LOL..... .



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy