building a shed w/tarps

I think the tarp idea is a waste of money as it won't last long in the wind.

Me, I would spend the same money on metal track (use for all framing including studs)( no metal studs, very thinn gauge) as there a heavy gauge and will last. Then use 28ga corragated sheeting for the roof and walls until you reach the same dollar value as the tarp cost.

Example: 10ft wide x 12ft long x 10ft high, 1 open end

23- metal framing track 2x4x10ft= $46
23- 2ftx10ft 28ga sheeting = $276
Box #7 x 3/4" metal screws= $5
tin snips= $15

Total= $342 at HD prices for a all metal shed, less door, door $100 more.

Have a hill side? Free shed for the digging and scrap lumber.

Build a sod shed. Turn a 10ft square of dirt. Mix dirt and 6" of Water and let stand. The next morning skim off the clay and set aside, then water 6" again, mix and let sit, skim off the clay. Repeat for enough clay.

Now mix 14% clay by volume, dirt, pea gravel and straw. Pour that mix into blocks and let sun dry.

Build shed walls with the blocks laying flat.

To build the roof, pour 8" x 12" x 4" thick blocks. Start on each corner by using blocks layed flat, then use a mortar mix of 14%clay and sand to build up a taper bed for the next block and lay the next block to the inside by 1/4 of block width, continue with the next layers until the blocking is layed on the 4" edge on all four coners. You should now have a open dome roof. Use the blocks on the 4" edge to finish the open dome. Finish the roof with a mortar mix of 14% clay sand mix.

To water proff inside and out, use diesel to fire blast the inside of the building to 2000º for 24hrs, about 25gal of diesel required. I won't go into details on the homemade burner but just pipe fitting and a ball valve with a 55gal drum 10ft in the air.

T_Bone

Your Welcome!

When screwing down the roof sheeting, only put screws on the high ribs as this keeps water from leaking in. You'll need #10 x 3/4" self-taping SM screws for the roof and #7 x 1/2" for the framing and wall skin or the #10's will also work well on wall skin. The hex head self-tapping SM screws work fine for this project.

One SM screw spaced every 8" on the sheeting on studs and rafters. Using a 1/8" pilot bit works well for installing the sheeting as it takes less pressure to set the screw so you don't dimple the skin.

Use the 2"x4" track for 45º corner gussets at each corner or buy some roofing valley metal, comes in rolls, then cut too 2" wide and continous "X" brace from each corner to corner screwed on the wall studs and roof rafters before the sheeting is installed. This keeps the building square and takes the pressure off the sheeting. The "X" bracing is stronger than corner gussets.

You will have to tie the building to the ground some way. A concrete pile's works well. As the concrete is setting up, push in a "U" shaped building hanger (made from track) on a 3/8" rod with a bent 90º on one end. A short piece of wood 2x4 or use large fender washers for the "U" hanger. Wood posts set in the ground before frost level also works well.

When making a 90º corner from track, just slit both narrow sides then fold letting the tabs over lap each other. Shoot a screw in each set of tab sides. Don't "V" notch the joint as it's weaker.

Wiss tin snips are well made. Buy the red handle if right handed (cuts left), or green handle if left handed (cuts right).

T_Bone