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I would check the fuel filter first. If it sat for 14 months, the fuel is certainly suspect, but not as much if you dilluted the bad fuel half and half with fresh fuel. Second, in a quiet area, turn the key to the run position but do not crank, you should hear the fuel pump run for 2-3 seconds to prime the the system. This is done every keystart even though the system should not lose prime. If you can't hear the pump run, have someone crank the engine and listen for it by the gas tank or take the cap off and listen there. If not, The pump may be stuck/locked up or missing a power source. I have unstuck many, many fuel pumps by hitting the tank while the engine is being cranked. Use a large rubber mallet, a hammer will dent the tank. If your lucky the engine will start while your hitting the tank, confirming that the pump is at issue, do not assume the pump is fixed at this point, it will still have to be replaced. If memory serves this car has a 4.6 liter, it is a very dependable engine. The only common failures I have seen are plug wires and valve guide seals. Of course, plug wires only go out one at a time. That's not the answer. The guides only make them smoke, that was on high mileage cars and cabs here in St. Louis. DO NOT GUT THE CONVERTORS. Aside from being ungodly expensive on a Ford vehicle (there can be up to 4 on a vehicle) If you gut the convertor, the check engine light will be on if the vehicle is 1996 or newer due to the much smarter computers used in OBD II emission control systems. The system can see if the convertor is not working, and then will set a code for "Catalyst Inefficiency" If you suspect the convertors, disconnect the exhaust system from the exhaust manifolds and then attempt to start the engine. If it starts and runs well, the problem is in the exhaust. Obviously, do not run the engine more than a minute or two due to the increase heat at the back of the manifolds due to lack of exhaust system. These are the first steps I would take. Good Luck. Chris Vangel.
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