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Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

Diesel engine break in

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Northwest dude

02-10-2005 21:15:42




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I just rebuilt a 30 Hp diesel engine, and now I need to break the engine in. How is the best way to do this without a dyno?




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mattd

02-11-2005 14:37:49




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 Re: Diesel engine break in in reply to Northwest dude, 02-10-2005 21:15:42  
i believe the only way to break an engine in is to put jd break in oil in, let it warm up. then find the biggest implement you think it could pull then give her h*ll. ive heard of mechanics taking their freshly rebuilt tractors over to very big trees and set the front end against the tree and let the tires spin. with no probelms.
with modern honing patterns the only way to get the rings broken in is to work the engine very very hard from the moment you first turn the key. otherwise the rings wont get broken in, and you'll get blowby early.
i found a website that explained this theroy very well, i will try to find it and post the address
also do the oil changing intervals others have mentioned

matt

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msb

02-11-2005 08:42:38




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 Re: Diesel engine break in in reply to Northwest dude, 02-10-2005 21:15:42  
The most important thing is to thouroughly warm the engine before loading it.95% of engine wear occurs in the first few minutes of operation.Deere engineers always said to run the engine under half load for about an hour and then gradually increase the load until under full load for another hour.That was the dyno method recommended years ago.



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thejdman01

02-11-2005 07:51:31




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 Re: Diesel engine break in in reply to Northwest dude, 02-10-2005 21:15:42  
you want to vary the rpm and vary the engine loads. watching guages is very very critical. after breakin change fluids



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JT

02-11-2005 06:32:46




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 Re: Diesel engine break in in reply to Northwest dude, 02-10-2005 21:15:42  
Old timers always told me to break em' in the way you want them to run for the rest of their life. Break em' in soft, they will be a soft engine all their life, not a lot of zip and power. Go out and work em' good and hard, and they will be a good powerful engine for the life of the tractor. run 10 hours, change the fluids, then give 'er h**l Always did that and seemed to work out good, don't know if that is the right way to do it, though.

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J. Schwiebert

02-11-2005 06:28:52




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 Re: Diesel engine break in in reply to Northwest dude, 02-10-2005 21:15:42  
You have received some decent advice. I do not know if you installed new sleeves & pistons, had a sleeveless engine and had it rebored or just put a new set of rings in. The key item with a chrome top ring is to get a load on the engine. Also if you honed the cylinder walls to aid in seating a chrome ring set a little different finish is a must. A major engine manufacture once made the statement if you overhauled a diesel and it used oil and you pulled it down again and put another ring set in and then it worked fine you blamed the problem on the rings but the actual cause was the cylinder finish and the first ring set just made it smooth enough for the second set to work. Also if this was an inframe when you drain the first oil and you look at it you will be surprised. Questions?

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jdemaris

02-11-2005 05:26:27




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 Re: Diesel engine break in in reply to Northwest dude, 02-10-2005 21:15:42  
We used to put all our rebuilds on dynos for engine break-in except for log skidders and crawlers with winches or no PTO shafts. Since they could NOT be put on our dyno, we had a couple of long hills that we'd drive them on. Nice long gradual hill will give you a chance to control load versus RPM and watch engine temp at the same time. If you live in flat land, you're out of luck. Running the tractor in a high gear and working the throttle comes close though. With crawlers, we had a sandy field behind the shop which allowed running a crawler with a steady, controllable load with the blade down. The main concern we had with break-in was piston ring line-up. I worked at several Deere dealerships, and we had problems with piston ring gaps lining up shortly after a rebuild. We never did a scientific study on the matter - but - could verify that rings were staggered when assembled, and lined up a few hundred engine hours later - sometimes causing oil consumption problems. This occurred with engines we rebuilt, and also new machines from Deere. Deere engineers suggested it might be a break-in problem related to harmonics. So, we got militant about giving every machine, at the least, a minimum two hour break in. More if it was on a dyno. It seemed to help. Also, with engines we rebuilt, all rings got staggered 180 degrees apart instead of 90 degrees. Hypothesis is, once break-in occurs, wear marks between the rings and cylinder wall created in the break-in process prevent the rings from walking around the pistons.

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farmweld

02-11-2005 04:58:49




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 Re: Diesel engine break in in reply to Northwest dude, 02-10-2005 21:15:42  
follow NC Wayne. except add in john deere's break in oil for breaking in a new, overhauled or rebuilt engine. just make sure you work it well over the breakin period



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txblu

02-11-2005 04:05:13




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 Re: Diesel engine break in in reply to Northwest dude, 02-10-2005 21:15:42  
I agree with Wayne and his dad. Main thing to watch is coolant temp. You want to push it to limber it up, varying the rpm's (not much full throttle for the first 50 or so hrs; like a zip up there and back down once in awhile); longer durations as the hours build. Varying speeds and loads; maybe just drive it up and down the road for the first couple of hours (show off to your neighbors ha ha).

Some come back and retorque the head. I have never done that and have never needed to..... and what a pain.

As long as she isn't overheating you are good to go. If she overheats, back off to idle in N and let her cool off (don't shut it off) and when it cools back to the thermostat first open temp (160-180 thereabouts)you're good to go again.

Drain the "normal running temp" oil (don't burn yourself) after about 50 hrs and put in new with a new filter.

Use diesel oil, not auto oil. If you need to know what that is check the archives.....plenty of discussions there (CH-4 type rated oil....along with the auto SJ type rating.....CH-4/SJ is a current rating. C is for compression type engines and S is for spark type engines). Being it's new, you might use the light multiviscosity (10-30) and later on go on to the heavier duty 15w-40. As long as you have good oil pressure, the lighter oil should be ok....Howsomever, I am a thick oil nut and my overhauls and old iron all get 15w-40 or 15w-50 (Mobil 1).

HTH, Good Luck,

Mark.

Mark

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NC Wayne

02-10-2005 22:24:40




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 Re: Diesel engine break in in reply to Northwest dude, 02-10-2005 21:15:42  
Basically the only thing you can do without a dyno is put in operation and make sure that it is running under a load. Like Dad says they used to do to break in rebuilt engines when he was working for a dealership "Pull 'er ears back and make 'er work".



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