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Concrete

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Hoosier JD

01-05-2005 14:15:12




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I have a 72 x 30 barn with loft that was finished late last summer. We are going to have concrete put in next spring or summer, when finances allow. My question is: how thick? The heaviest item in the barn is my 4010 gas. Last I checked, concrete was $78 per yard and add $6 for fibercon (sp?). I was thinking along the lines of 4" thick, but I have never had any concrete work done and am looking for any suggestions. The barn was actually built on old barnyard, which is pretty hard if that helps any. Thanks, Mike

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VADAVE

01-06-2005 03:38:58




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 Re: Concrete in reply to Hoosier JD, 01-05-2005 14:15:12  
I have a building with one bay 14 by 28, 4 inch concrete with fiber floor. Heaviest thing I have driven onto it is a fully loaded 10 wheel grain truck (45,000+ lb), there are no cracks.



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Todd L

01-05-2005 19:20:08




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 Re: Concrete in reply to Hoosier JD, 01-05-2005 14:15:12  
5 inches would be about right so would fiber mesh. You could do half of your biulding then pin it with rebar then pour the other half when finances allow. Do it right the first time as the second gets costly. I manage a redimix plant and there is no shortage as far as I now but there is a strong demand for concrete. All the stories about a shortage of powder isn't true. Suppliers just can't keep up.

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DAVE NE IOWA

01-05-2005 18:21:31




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 Re: Concrete in reply to Hoosier JD, 01-05-2005 14:15:12  
My guess is you perhaps should have done it last fall regardless -- as concrete PRICES is A going out of site. IF YOU CAN GET IT. Our concrete Co. will not contract or guarentee a price come spring. Seems alot of product is headed overseas is the excuse. A large hog house going up wants 1,ooo cy on the main floor pour in one day--cement Co. said it probably will not happen as the shortage of slate. I will bring up my point of view as one of the most important things is a uniform fill UNDER THE CONCRETE even if you have to escavate to do so. Rebar is very expensive, but I feel very critical. If a costomer wants it good in a shop or machine shed we go 6" of 4,000 reverse mix. 1/2 inch no grade bendable rebar 12 inches on center. Tie the rebar together with twisty wires---and raise the rebar with 1 1/2 in plastic clip chairs so the rebar does its job---(recomended in the bottom 1/3 of your slab). Unless you keep everything heated all winter try to think of friction points where the frost will lift, say along a pole, the approch to your shed etc. and make sure they can slide up and down past each other with little or no friction)expansion joint. Remember frost WILL lift regardless, and if one thing moves and the other doesn't it will crack. Good drainage is important if there is any way possible for your fill as well as drainage away from your slab. Frost lift is more if their is water in your fill (poor drainage). I feel fiber money should be spent on more rebar, fiber is a secondary reinforcment, rebar is a primary reinforcement-- although much more labor intence. Consider laying a short end of rail road rail upside down flush with your poured surface to use as a anvil when beating on things instead of maring up your concrete. I'm not sold on plastic to stop wicking as if you use sand for fill it will draw moisture from the slab, usualy concrete sweats from tempature change, seldom from wicking. Heat in the floor is great but very expensive. Everyone want slope on a slab, but very little, I tell them all to put a 3/4 inch board under one of their kitchen table legs, and dump a glass of water on the table--there is still water on the table as water puddles. Consider a profesional for the pour, get it ready to pour yourself to keep the cost down--maybe tell all your friends that the Dallas coyboy cheerleaders are stopping by after the pour if they help you. I jaaaabered long enough. good luck DAVE NE IOWA

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Sid

01-05-2005 17:35:22




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 Re: Concrete in reply to Hoosier JD, 01-05-2005 14:15:12  
You have a lot of good concrete advice but the one thing I did not see mentione was base. You need a good solid base for a long lasting slab. How you do it depends on different soil type so you should sk around your area for that kind of advice.



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dr.sportster

01-06-2005 06:33:19




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 Re: Concrete in reply to Sid, 01-05-2005 17:35:22  
Yes Hoosier listen to Sid.On jobs[ive been on]where there is to be heavy truck traffic Ive noticed they pack down on the underlying soil very hard with rollers that vibrate the earth as they roll it out.Tamp the base down hard .As mentioned keep rebar properly located or it becomes ineffective.



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David McAdams

01-05-2005 16:29:22




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 Re: Concrete in reply to Hoosier JD, 01-05-2005 14:15:12  
Just my two cents worth, but I have done a lot of concrete work and have poured in both Alaska and Florida and a few states in between. You dont say where you live which would make a diffrence or what type of building you have I assume its a pole barn of some type. I wouldn't pour anything less than 6 inches if any type of equipment was going on it and I would never pour it thinner on the edges. If you live in a cold area use steel and lots of it. Make sure you keep your steel up off the ground while you are pouring. Put lots of steel in the edges and corners this will keep it from breaking out. On a slab I make the edge of the slab deeper and I angle the bottom so its wider at the base, like a mini footer. If you use rebar bend it to go around the corner edges making sure you have it long enough to get way around the corner. If you use wire mesh roll the mesh into round tubes, like you were going to use it to put around a garden plant and place that along the edges and wire it to the mesh in the rest of the slab. I use both rebar and mesh in my own buildings. My father always told me if your going to build something dont make it last for just you make it last for the next generations as well.

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Hoosier JD

01-05-2005 16:38:24




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 Re: Concrete in reply to David McAdams, 01-05-2005 16:29:22  
Thanks for all the comments. This is a polebarn and I'm located in Pendleton, Indiana ( 25-30 miles northeast of Indianapolis ). I've made notes and hopefully this will help things go smoothly for now and in the future. Thank, Mike



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lucass

01-05-2005 15:41:04




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 Re: Concrete in reply to Hoosier JD, 01-05-2005 14:15:12  
you need 6 inches if you want to pull heavy equipment in . plastic put down first would help it from wicking up water..lucass



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farmalljim10

01-05-2005 15:27:35




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 Re: Concrete in reply to Hoosier JD, 01-05-2005 14:15:12  
If you dont already have it graded think about pouring it 4 inches thick at edges where you wont be driving and 5 inches in the middle..Or use rebar also in middle ...Fibrecrete is ok but rebar is still the best. But I also understand finances.. To change from 4 to5 inch you change the bottom elevation and keep top the same..



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Unimog

01-05-2005 15:09:16




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 Re: Concrete in reply to Hoosier JD, 01-05-2005 14:15:12  
I think 4" of fibercrete should be fine, looks
like 27 yards and $2268 in crete cost. To go one
inch more to 5" would be 34 yards and $2856 in
cost. That fibercrete is some pretty strong stuff,
but if your unsure go another 1/2" or 1" to be
safe. Also you could order a stronger mix to add
the extra strength.



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