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No problem, I went through this on mine, now I'm an expert LOL ! Actually just took my time and it was really not a bad job to tackle, glad my axle seals were dry too. Another thing I mentioned in my message that was inadvertantly deleted, was to build up the ends of the rod that passes through the backer plate where it contacts & expands the pads against the drum when the pedal is depressed, it seems these surfaces wear down and will increase the free play on the pedal travel, so building them up ( I used a stick welder & air powered die grinder) and grinding them flat to original thickness is something to consider, I built them up and assembled the pads and drums, then worked the pedals to see how it performed, as I could not find a specified thickness dimension for this. It is something worth doing, to get the pedals to be stiff and have plenty of leverage, if you build them up too far, you won't be able to get the drum on, the pads will be expanded out too far, even with the adjuster backed off 100%. The right pedal on mine still has trouble returning, I built up the brake cam actuator as stated above on the right side,it was worn, but went too heavy building up the cam surface, then ground too much off, went back & forth a few times to get a middle ground on the thickness, still be able to get the drum back on, and have the pedal return properly, I'm not sure what happened, might be some play where it goes through the backer plate, brake works good on that side, but the pedal does not return like the left side, and I used all new parts & springs on this side, the left side has old springs, they seemed ok, and the pedal works great, returns to the top nicely. Might have to adjust and reset where the pedal connects to the rod that passes through the backer plate,not sure, or let the adjuster out some, both sides were backed right off with the new parts, probably some unique problem specific to this particular 850 of mine, it's seen a lot of hours so I would not be surprised if something else is worn or missing. Also, when driving out the pivot pins, heat them up if the rust has bonded them in place, but use moderate heat, no need to get them glowing red, and localize it to the pin on either side, I used a "B" tank, acetylene only, with I think a brazing/soldering tip, just like what commercial plumbers use, will turn things red, but not nearly as hot as a cutting torch, much better than a common propane soldering torch found at a hdwe. store, real handy and inexpensive thing to have, just for heating, it's paid for itself in freeing rusted bolts many times over. Once you heat these pivot pins, it seems to break the rust bond after a couple of good taps with a hammer and a pin, ( wear eye protection ) after cooling a bit, they seem to come right out, I used a long grade 8 bolt to tap mine out, the thin flange on the pin used to hold the retainer clips may catch and peel off, probably best to get 4 new pivot pins, if you can drive them out from behind the backer plate, the flange will not catch, but there is no room to get a hammer back there, I did get a few out without peeling the flange, I think I used something the same diameter as the pin and it pushed through, someone may have a better trick for this. I took a picture of the assembly before I took it apart, for reference during re-assembly, then disassembled both sides, made a parts list, from my parts book, checked a few internet suppliers and found that NH was very close in prices, so I bought everything except the drums from NH. John in LA posted his brake job on here, around the same time I was doing mine last summer, highly appreciated that post, with photos. The side with one less brake return spring is kind of strange, but shows as such in the book. Not sure what would happen if you added a spring here, seems odd to have only one on one side, the assembly is identical. I was just out on the hills with the 850 getting a bucket of wood, was well worth repairing the brakes properly when you deal with hills !
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