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When it's having it's no-start fit, connect a jumper wire from the battery (+) to the coil (+) and see if you have spark, then. (The coil (-) is connected to the distributor.) Don't leave the wire connected without the engine running for more than half a minute, or so, and if it does start,unhook the jumper right away, and it should continue to run on power from the ignition switch. (The points will burn if you run it very long on full battery voltage.) If it starts, you have problems with your "start bypass" circuit from the starter solenoid "R" terminal to the coil (+) terminal, or shorted wiring to the ignition switch. If it doesn't have spark with the jumper from the battery connected, check the wire from the coil (-) to the points for shorts, and tug on it a little to see if the conductor could be broken inside the insulation. Change condensor (New defectives are not unheard of.) Connect a test light to the coil (-) terminal and crank the engine over. The light should flash as the points open and close, showing that current is getting through the coil, and there are no shorts between the coil and the points, and that the points are opening and closing. If still no spark, change the coil. One other note, check for excessive play in the distributor shaft/bushings, and check the spark advance/breaker plate mechanism for play that would affect the point gap.
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