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Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

O.T. Homelite Chainsaws

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Kevin (FL)

10-29-2004 21:01:19




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I know this isn't a tractor question but I figure there's enough loggers on this site that would know about chainsaws. We've been using Homelite XL12's for many years and they've been fine for our firewood cutting and general duty work. Now that we have about a dozen cords of oak laying on the ground (thanks to Hurricane Ivan) and some trees are pretty wide across the trunk, we need something bigger but can't afford a new saw. Years ago In Mississippi we had a couple friends that had Super Wiz 55's & 66's that were heavy but they would sure cut through a big trunk. I thought about looking for one of those but I don't see them for sale much. I've also seen Homelite "C5's" and "C9's" (or something similar) for sale in the local paper but never heard of those models. Does anyone know anything about these "C" models--engine size, bar sizes, weight etc. Were they lemons or good saws? Any recommendations on any other brands and models? The local power companies are using Huskys and Stihls but they also have plenty of money too...

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RickL

10-31-2004 06:17:38




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 Re: O.T. Homelite Chainsaws in reply to Kevin (FL), 10-29-2004 21:01:19  
Kevin; I have one of those old Big Blue homelites that I would love to get rid of.It has been laying in the barn for several years.



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Kevin (FL)

10-31-2004 18:02:46




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 Re: O.T. Homelite Chainsaws in reply to RickL, 10-31-2004 06:17:38  
Hi Rick,

Can you send me an email at oldtractorshed-att-net? Do the usual stuff on the email address--put the "@" before "att" and the period before "net". I'm getting flooded with spam so I try to be cautious with putting my email online.

Thanks



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jdemaris

10-30-2004 08:21:58




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 Re: O.T. Homelite Chainsaws in reply to Kevin (FL), 10-29-2004 21:01:19  
I'm not a logger per sé, but I used to be a tree cutter/climber for Asplundh, still cut my own firewood, and was a Homelite and Stihl mechanic dating back to the 60s. I've used, and still have many of the old Homelites including the old heavyweights e.g the 4-20, 5-30, Super-Wiz and Buzz. The number series stood for horsepower-weight so a 4-20 is four horsepower and weighs 20 lbs. When I was a foreman for Asplundh during the 70s, all we had were XL 12 Homelites. At the time, the general experience was that the older blue colored XL12s were much better quality than the newer red ones. Either way, when we changed over to using Stihls, there was no comparison. The German saws started well -cold or hot - they idled well - and cutting speed was MUCH faster. As far as the older heavyweights - they were rugged - and crude - and heavy - and slow no matter how sharp - especially the gear-drive models. And parts are hard to find - but like anything - they can be had if you pay enough or look hard enough. I had trouble getting parts for them back in the 70s when we used Homelite's obolete-parts department - which probably no longer exists. I know where there is pile of saws for sale right now - all at $25 apiece - and all the old heavy Homelites. I bought one because it's a two man saw and I want it just to screw around with. If your desire is to cut wood, you'd be WAY ahead to buy yourself a well taken care of 10 or 20 year old saw such as a Stihl 045 or 051 - or even an 041. I come across them quite often in the $150 price range. If taken care of they are almost indestructible. I'm sure many other saws are just as good but I don't have much experience with them. I bought a "Sears Best" saw last week at a yard sale for $50. It's actually a Poulan Professional model, 3 something cubic inches and a 20" bar - and I tell you what. For $50 it's amazing. It will cut circles around any XL12 made. Can't say how long it will last, though. With any saw, if you want durability, it should have ball bearings on both ends of the crankshaft - not needle bearings - and the lining on the cylinder wall is of utmost importance. Many el-cheapo saws have a thin chrome plating over aluminum - or sometimes no plating at all - and it falls apart fast - especially when overheated or run lean. That's what makes the big difference between good and bad modern saws.

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Kevin (FL)

10-30-2004 09:13:23




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 Re: O.T. Homelite Chainsaws in reply to jdemaris, 10-30-2004 08:21:58  
More good info there too. Sounds like we need be looking for one of those Stihl saws. The only reason I mentioned the Sup'r Wiz models is that I saw them cutting large live oaks in Mississippi after Camille hit. Where are those Homelites for sale?

We have several live oaks and red oaks down on our property and the XL12's can only go so far because of trunk diameter and running time without overheating. We also have a Pro Mac 650 that's quite a horse but it doesn't have a bow on it. For anyone that hasn't tried to cut or split a live oak tree, you just can't relate--it's like cutting a block of oyster shells or something. I remember a post a few months back about splitting wood and several folks mentioned black walnut and a few other woods that were tough as nails.

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jdemaris

10-30-2004 19:45:38




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 Re: O.T. Homelite Chainsaws in reply to Kevin (FL), 10-30-2004 09:13:23  
I don't know anything about Live Oaks. I've cut and split plenty of Black Walnut, Red and White Oak, but the worst I've ever come across as far as cutting or splitting is curly Hard Maple - especially stump wood. I just got done cutting up and splitting a 60" diameter Hard Maple tree. The wood near the stump would not split in my splitter - the wedge actually cut through it instead of splitting it. It almost had no grain at all. I've never used or seen a bow on a saw either. I've got a 30" bar on my Stihl 045 Super and never found a tree yet that it couldn't handle. I think it would cut all day long in 90 degree weather if the chain was kept sharp. Once it gets a little dull though, it will work the heck out of any saw. Most of the cutting should be accomplished by chain speed, not chainsaw engine lugging power. 30" bar and chain is awful though one you hit one little pebble or a nail or something. It's a lot of chain to sharpen. The Homelites I mention are on someones front lawn in a pile near me - in the town of East Meredith, New York - Delaware County. There's maybe 10-12 saws, mostly big Homelites but also a big Mac and a Remminton Mall saw along with a couple of old walk-behind tractors. As I mentioned earlier, they want $25 each. I offered $100 for the whole pile, but no deal. So . . . I bought the big two-man saw. It has 5/8" chain on it, a huge Homelite powerhead, but the rest of the saw is, I think, Disston. It barely fit in the back of my Suburban, so it's about 8' long total.

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Greg C.

10-29-2004 22:24:41




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 Re: O.T. Homelite Chainsaws in reply to Kevin (FL), 10-29-2004 21:01:19  
Kevin,
The C series are rock solid. I have a few they are heavy and slower but will get the job done. If you find a good runner I'd grab it you'll like it since you know Homelites already. The C5 is the smallest 77cc's and it goes up from there. Will run big bars and .404 or 3/8 chain I'd go for 3/8 chisel myself its less work and faster. Parts still availible if you know where to look. These saws are always on Ebay but can get pricey these days(too many bidders). Another saw I like are the big Pioneers P50,P60,62 etc. If you find one get it they will cut like crazy! Have a real good look at this site it will tell you anything I left out.

Link

Some will tell you the old saws are junk but they can and will if maintained properly do a good job just slower. I refubish them and sell so if you need help let me know. I don't have any big ones forsale right now though. Sold alot to people in FL lately. I also sell new Solo's decently priced compared to Stihl especially. Their a good German saw and will run with anything out there.

And some good tips for old saw shoppers. Take the muffler or stack off and watch the piston go by with a flashlight as you pull. If its scored or rings stuck then it needs rebuilt. The chrome on the cylinder walls should not be scored or chipped. Some have cast iron liners that can be honed so look for cross hatch on them chrome doesnt have cross hatch. Take a compression guage and give it a few good pulls around 150psi is great anything down to around 125 will work good too but 100 or lower needs rings. If it runs turn it on its side rapidly and alternate it should run in all positions without stalling! If it does could simply need the mixture adjusted or an air leak usually from carb spacer or boot/manifold or crank seals. These probles are not too hard to fix if your mechanically inclined and have good 2 cycle knowledge. Good bagaining points to know!

I always go over an old saw and rebuild carb, gaskets, filters, fuel lines and put new crank seals in. Makes them run like new if everything else is in good shape. Well there you go should give you a good idea. I'll be glad to answer any questions.

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scott rivers

01-06-2005 05:49:00




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 Re: O.T. Homelite Chainsaws in reply to Greg C., 10-29-2004 22:24:41  
I have a SUPER XL blue color chain saw that during my cutting will rev at high speed intermitantly and also will leak gas from where the black rubber fuel line leaves the gas tank and travels to the carburator.I took it to a rental repair center who stated the only thing he could see was that a rubber gromet or seal should be at the hole where the gas line enters the tank.The only problem is HOMELITE co. said the part is no longer available.Would this fix my problem and where can I get this part!?THANKS!!

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Kevin (FL)

10-30-2004 05:18:21




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 Re: O.T. Homelite Chainsaws in reply to Greg C., 10-29-2004 22:24:41  
Thanks Greg--lots of good information there. I appreciate your time and efforts. Where are you located?



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Greg C.

10-30-2004 14:32:30




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 Re: O.T. Homelite Chainsaws in reply to Kevin (FL), 10-30-2004 05:18:21  
Glad to be of help. I am located in western Pennsylvania.



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