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Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

SETTING THE VALVES

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steve

05-12-2004 17:48:02




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Can anyone tell me how to adjust the valves on my 4-Cyl Case 300. I messed with the valves for a minute and discovered that on the compression stroke with my thumb over the spark plug hole that air hisses out of the exhaust outlet with the exhaust valve fully closed. The rocker arm is not even touching the exhaust valve when this happens. Isn't it suppose to make a perfect seal and push my thumb out of the spark plug hole? thanks for any help.

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lawrence

05-21-2004 21:00:35




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 Re: SETTING THE VALVES in reply to steve, 05-12-2004 17:48:02  
set no.1 cyl. valves when no.4 cyl. valves are in overlap (exh. closing as intake starts to open). then set no.4 cyl when no.1 is in overlap. then no.3 when 2 overlaps & 2 when 3 overlaps! run motor for a half hour or so then check compression with pressure gage with all sparkplugs removed and throttle wide open. if pressures are within 10 psi. of each other,happy trails!



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rustyfarmall

05-12-2004 18:40:56




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 Re: SETTING THE VALVES in reply to steve, 05-12-2004 17:48:02  
Sounds to me like it is time for a valve job. After a while, the valves and the seats become worn. No amount of adjustment will make them seal up.



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Steve

05-12-2004 21:05:30




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 Re: Re: SETTING THE VALVES in reply to rustyfarmall, 05-12-2004 18:40:56  
Rusty I just got the heads back today from the machine shop which they did a valve job on it and milled the head. I was just wondering should this be happening. If I turn the motor over real fast with my socket wrench it will pop my finger off the hole, but turning very slow it will hiss out of the exhaust port. I didnt change the pistons mabye a little air is slipping by the rings, but they are brand new valves thanks, Steve.

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rustyfarmall

05-12-2004 21:37:59




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 Re: Re: Re: SETTING THE VALVES in reply to Steve, 05-12-2004 21:05:30  
Did you replace the springs?



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jdemaris

05-13-2004 05:05:44




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: SETTING THE VALVES in reply to rustyfarmall, 05-12-2004 21:37:59  
I don't know about the condition of the guy's springs but it doesn't matter. If a proper valve job was done it would take very little pressure for the valve to seal. Weak springs would have an effect at higher RPMs, but not at cranking. They'd have to be broken to cause the valve to hiss through a port at cranking speed. If the seats were ground deeper, and the valves refaced and therefore thinner, the springs should have been to shimmed to get back to proper installed spring-height - but still - that's not going to make them leak at cranking speed. If they are leaking, sounds like someone did a botch-job. That's one of the reasons I like using valve-lapping compound. I don't use it seal the valve and seat, I use it as a marking compound. It shows if good contact is being made or not, how wide the seat is, how much valve margin exists, etc. Also - one suggestion. Anytime we'd get a head back from a shop (instead of doing it ourselves) we fill the ports with kerosene and stand the head on its side - and then wait and see it the kerosene would leak through the valves. It's a good quick test to see if someone did a bad screw-up.

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rustyfarmall

05-13-2004 05:20:07




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: SETTING THE VALVES in reply to jdemaris, 05-13-2004 05:05:44  
I agree with you on the lapping compound, I like to use it myself. I also like the idea of doing the leak test with kerosene, I would think that diesel fuel would give the same results?



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jdemaris

05-13-2004 10:57:39




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: SETTING THE VALVES in reply to rustyfarmall, 05-13-2004 05:20:07  
Any thin liquid will work - but I guess I wouldn't recommend gasoline for obvious reasons.



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