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wdTom
12-27-2003 07:54:49
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Re: O.T. isulation and moister barrier. in reply to Chances R, 12-25-2003 07:19:21
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For an old house that can be drafty I would definatly use a vapor barrier. Even if you use karft backed insulation in the walls, which you should do to hole it in place, a vapor barrier can help as there can be leaks or tears in the kraft face. Do the ceiling too. It is easier to vent the space with exhaust fans in the kitchen and bath if necessary than to live with a drafty house or have a moisture problem in the insulation. Do a very carefull job of insulation. If you miss a little corner it can let the cold into that whole section of wall or ceiling. Cut the insulation to fit the space carefully with maybe 1/2" to 1' extra at the ends, you want it to fit, but not compress the insulation. Insulation works because it traps air spaces, if you compress it it has less or no air space in it. You can't have too much atic venting. If you do a good job of insulation, install a vapor barrier, have good venting, you won't have a problem and you will forever be glad you did because it will be easier (cheaper) to heat. Try to get at least R19 in the walls and r 38 or 40 in the ceiling. You can fatten out the studs to be able to get more in walls or you can add a layer of ridgid foam board over the studs. Then the vapor barrier. I have a lot of walls in my house that are double studded and this works great I have found. A double studded wall has two rows of 2 x 4s, the sill and top plate are 2x 8s and the studs are offset from each other by 12", so you have a stud every 12" one on the inside, then one on the outside, etc. along the wall. At windows or doors you use 2x8s to frame the opening. When you put up the outside layer of 4' insulation you must puncture the vapor barrier to allow for moisture to pass out through it. I used a approx. 12" square board with a bunch of nails sticking out through the bottom, a 2x3" handle sticking up. I would just go along the insulation strup before I put it in place and make hundreds of holes in the kraft facing, then staple it in place. You really need the facing in a wall to hold the insualtion, unfaced would sag over time and be worthless.
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