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Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

Need some help designing a ROP for my oliver 550

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Matt

08-18-2003 07:28:45




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So i have taken my 550 to a guy who builds race cars yesterday to design a rop for it, but i need some help. First off he said that he could use some 1 3/4 inch 120 seamless steel tube and i was wondering if you all think that this is enough. he said that he could use some 2x2 or bigger square steel, but he wouldn't be able to bend it and would have to do some welding up at the top. I had posted this at another discussion forum and someone suggested i use 2x4 or bigger. The other thing that we found out was that the pto lever comes back and hits where the rop would go up from the axle. He said that he could take it around it a bit but it might be a knuckle buster..... so is there a way to reconfigure this lever so that its out of the way (maybe putting it up front? So what is the best thing to do here? What have you all done? If anybody has a digital camera and could take a picture or two and shoot them out to me at gelder@rocketmail.com that would be spectacular. This guy does good work, but we just need some ideas.
thanks matt

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Matt

08-19-2003 06:04:34




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 Re: Need some help designing a ROP for my oliver 5 in reply to Matt, 08-18-2003 07:28:45  
Hey guys,
thanks for all the ideas. This has been very helpful. Im not too concerned with osha regs etc. because this is just for me, but thanks for the input in any event. I guess the only question is how far off the back of the axle can i go. What i mean is can i have it come off the axle at an angle toward the back of the tractor and then go straight up? And if so what is a safe maximum angle. I know that its hard to say without looking at it, but what are your thoughts on this?
thanks again
matt

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Jailkeeper

08-19-2003 07:36:52




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 Re: Re: Need some help designing a ROP for my oliv in reply to Matt, 08-19-2003 06:04:34  
Matt, I think the JD rops for the older tractors are built to angle towards the rear of the tractor. When seated, the axles are almost directly underneath, and the top of the rops was maybe 8-12 inches behind that. Hope that gives you a mental picture. If you could find one in your area with a rops or canopy you could probably get some ideas from that. I think however you build it, it should be mounted to the top of the axles, not the front or back of the housings.

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Rod F.

08-18-2003 20:28:54




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 Re: Need some help designing a ROP for my oliver 5 in reply to Matt, 08-18-2003 07:28:45  
I don't want to rain on the parade here, but building a rollbar may not be the answer. In some areas, department of labor will not recognize a home built ROP, only factory approved. Here in Nova Scotia, I believe they will also approve something that is CWB certified. Approval would be a consideration if you are trying to meet regs or insurance etc. That said, if it is purely for your own safety, then over building is the way to go. 2x6x1/8 would be a minimum. 1/4 would be better. To use round pipe, you would need to depend on the tractor landing upside down with the ROP standing perpindicular, for the pipe to have any strength. Round pipe would likely just fold back. That's why rectangular steel is used...to take advantage of the cross section. One final note...use a seat belt, or just save your money. The ROP will do more harm than good, unless you're strapped in. Good luck.

Rod

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OSHA says

08-18-2003 14:14:12




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 Re: Need some help designing a ROP for my oliver 5 in reply to Matt, 08-18-2003 07:28:45  



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REDMAN

08-18-2003 13:25:21




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 Re: Need some help designing a ROP for my oliver 5 in reply to Matt, 08-18-2003 07:28:45  
the .120 seamless will work,but it will take 3 pipes over your head to hold it.i would go with a 2x4x1/4 rec. tube,mount it to the axel housing and top of platform with a min. of the equivelant of 5 5/8 grade 8 bolts on each side.the round will look better but looks ain't very important when it comes comes to safety.



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paul

08-18-2003 12:53:22




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 Re: Need some help designing a ROP for my oliver 5 in reply to Matt, 08-18-2003 07:28:45  
As the others say, they need to be substantial to hold the weight of the tractor & a 3-point implement.

In addition, I understand they really need a seatbelt to do the most good....

--->Paul



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Deas Plant.

08-18-2003 11:59:02




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 Re: Need some help designing a ROP for my oliver 5 in reply to Matt, 08-18-2003 07:28:45  
Hi, Matt. It is good to see somebody doing something to protect themselves on their tractor but I have to tell you that there is a bit more to a ROP than JUST a frame. There are certain set parameters that a frame has to pass to gain certification. As I understand it, one is that it must take the weight of the tractor dropped vertically on it from 10 feet above without substantial deformation. Another is that it has to take weight of the tractor swung sideways at it from 10 feet, again without substantial deformation.

To achieve this sort of strength, how you design the top of the structure is every bit as important as where or how you mount it and what you make it out of. It is hard to over-build something is supposed to save your life.

Go bigger rather than "she'll do" and brace and/or gusset all welds thoroughly. It would also not be stupid to consult a certified structural engineer about and/or get some info from your tractor's manufacturer on what ROP structures they have for it to give you an idea of what is involved.

Happy building.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

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Charlie

08-18-2003 11:58:59




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 Re: Need some help designing a ROP for my oliver 5 in reply to Matt, 08-18-2003 07:28:45  
Matt A similar tractor in size and shape is the Ford 3000. If you look on>Link
Their>Link is a detail with specification for a ROP set up, which you may be able to alter to fit your 550. Just a thought
Charlie



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26Red

08-18-2003 11:45:54




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 Re: Need some help designing a ROP for my oliver 5 in reply to Matt, 08-18-2003 07:28:45  
I would take a look at other tractors similar in size to your Oliver 550 that have a ROPS. Use at least 2x2x.188 wall tubing. Square is stronger than round tubing. Contact a local machine shop to help with the bending. Overbuilding will not hurt. Besure to mount the ROPS securely on the tractor. Some problems to note, on the letter series farmalls, the axle castings are not strong enough to survive an rollover with ROPS mounted on the axles alone. So tie your mounting points into several places on the tractor. You may find a 4 post design will be easier to mount.

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REDMAN

08-18-2003 13:19:19




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 Re: Re: Need some help designing a ROP for my oliv in reply to 26Red, 08-18-2003 11:45:54  
round is stronger than square,when square bends it kinks and loses all strength,round bends alot more than square so it is more durable.square will take more pressure in some cases to start the bend,but round takes more pressure to bend he farther you bend it.



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26Red

08-18-2003 14:19:48




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 Re: Re: Re: Need some help designing a ROP for my in reply to REDMAN, 08-18-2003 13:19:19  
Yes, round tubing is easier to bend in some cases. Mandrel bending lessens kinking or deformation. Round tube goes thru the same stresses during bending. When bending, you are not weakening the material, you are acutally imposing working stresses that strenghten the tube. If you stretch the material past it's plastic state it becomes prone to fracture.

Square tubing has more cross section area when compared to round tubing gemometry. For example 2' Square tubing compared to 2" round. That's why it is harder to bend. Both types of tubing have their pro's and cons depending on the application.

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REDMAN

08-18-2003 21:18:41




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Need some help designing a ROP for in reply to 26Red, 08-18-2003 14:19:48  
can't mandrel bend round tube and still sfi it,it thins the side wall to much.



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Jailkeeper

08-18-2003 08:26:13




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 Re: Need some help designing a ROP for my oliver 5 in reply to Matt, 08-18-2003 07:28:45  
I don't think you would want to go any smaller than 2x4 rectangular tubing. I would probably use 3x5 if I was doing it. It needs to be mounted on the axle housings to do you any good.
If the PTO linkage is a problem, maybe you can re-design the linkage to clear the rops post.

If you are spending the time and money to build a rops, then obviously you have half a brain. Don't settle for something half-assed that could get you killed.

Moral of story - it's better to over-build than under-build.

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