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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

DIY case hardening

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Craig

01-10-2004 17:43:33




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As of now this is a theoretical question, but you never know when it might come in handy. how do you case harden a solid piece of steel? I will use a piece of solid rod as an example. would you heat this rod so that it is glowing red and then quickly plunge it in water or oil and quickly remove it before the interior cools? Or is case hardening a process in which only the outside layer of the metal is heated?

The reason I am asking this is that i was helping someone re-harden a piece of steel today and they asked what case hardening was. I explained that it is when only the exterior of a metal part is hardened but the inside is not, making it strong but not brittle. I was not able to explain the process of how it is don though.

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D.L.

01-11-2004 11:45:59




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 Re: DIY case hardening in reply to Craig, 01-10-2004 17:43:33  
I agree with some of the posts... you must have carbon (or some alloy) present to harden steel. You can heat 1018 as hot as you want and plunge it in ice water... still won't get hard! A couple years ago, I took a metallurgy class... one of our lab experiments was case hardening. The method we used was VERY crude, but worked! We took a piece of 3/4" mild steel round bar(low carbon, no alloy), heated it red hot with a torch, then plunged it into a bucket of pulverized charcoal (yeah, the kind you barbeque with) Leave the steel in the carbon until cool. Now, reheat the steel to dull red and quench in water. Presto! That mild steel tested at 55 Rc. (for reference, a file is 60 Rc) Being the inquisitive type, I cut the bar away a little at a time and tested at various depths... the hardness had penetrated more than .200"!!! Would never have believed it if I hadn't seen it with my own eyes!

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Craig

01-11-2004 16:41:30




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 Re: Re: DIY case hardening in reply to D.L., 01-11-2004 11:45:59  
Thanks for all of the responses. I'm going to try that charcoal thing just because it sounds really neat. I have one question though. putting a red hot piece of steel into charcoal will surely light it on fire. Im guesing i will need to bury the part under enough of this crushed charcoal to block the oxygen from getting to it. the question is how far do i have to bury it? or do i just do the whole thing in a pot and put a lid on to keep the oxygen out? i'm just going to try a small piece of angle iron since it is an experiment.

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D.L.

01-11-2004 17:39:44




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 Re: Re: Re: DIY case hardening in reply to Craig, 01-11-2004 16:41:30  
When we did this experiment, we literally had a coffee can full of crushed charcoal... had heated the bar stock a total of about 6"... just jammed the whole thing into the charcoal. No flames, no indication of combustion, just sort of sat there! We did this in the college welding shop. Just in case, you might want to try this outside, away from trees, etc... but we had no problems. Once you harden steel to this degree, it will be very brittle... you'll need to temper it (actually a softening process) if you want to make tools (chisels, etc) because, as I mentioned earlier, the "case" went through the steel more than 3/16". If you want steel that's not quite so hard (and not so brittle), quench in oil. should harden to about Rc 30.

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TimV

01-11-2004 07:33:00




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 Re: DIY case hardening in reply to Craig, 01-10-2004 17:43:33  
Craig: You can still get Kasenite--I just bought a can from Enco (www.use-enco.com) a couple of months ago. It's quite inexpensive--less than $20 for a small can, which will go quite a ways. I used it for hardening a transfer punch for some over-sized holes that I had to locate and drill. Turned a point on to a piece of round stock and hardened it with Kasenite--worked like a charm!



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T_Bone

01-11-2004 04:04:43




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 Re: DIY case hardening in reply to Craig, 01-10-2004 17:43:33  
Hi craig,

As sam pointed out, case harding is just a surface layer thats hard. Carbon or bone is powered in a vaccum chamber then heated as the steel will absorb the hardening agent.

One old way of blacksmithing was to powder carbon, heat the steel to dull red, then draw the steel thru the carbon powder as it's rubbed accross a salamonic block. Another way was to bring the steel to a dull red then quinch in horse urine (weak nitric acid) then temper at about 500F. Both of thease methods works well. some knife makers still use both methods.

Most hardening was done at dawn so the blacksmith could comapre the dull red with the rising sun.

A very good book on the subject is:
Advanced Gunsmithing by W.F. Vickery ( out of print) but copies are still around. I paid $20 for a copy at amazon.com

T_Bone

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Fred OH

01-13-2004 11:19:58




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 Re: Re: DIY case hardening in reply to T_Bone, 01-11-2004 04:04:43  
Anything with carbon in it can be used to case harden steel. One thing used in the past was bones...it transferred the carbon from the bones to the steel. Another thing was potassium cyanide ?...same thing used for gas chamber?...but we won't discuss that one. T_Bone...you forgot one thing about the old heat treaters...when they heat treated a knife blade...they put a stick in the bucket of treating oil and stirred till there was a void in the middle to stick the knife blade in...always pointing the knife blade toward the north. Anybody else ever hear of this? Fred OH

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Samh

01-10-2004 20:58:37




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 Re: DIY case hardening in reply to Craig, 01-10-2004 17:43:33  
Carbon is the element that makes steel harden. All steel has some percentage of Carbon. Tool Steels and other high carbon steels have enough (above .3%) Carbon and alloying elements to make them harden by heating to a specified temperature and quenching either in water, oil, or air, depending on the grade and type. After hardening, they become very brittle so they have to be tempered (drawn). Drawing temperature and time determine the final hardness.

Since low carbon steels (mild steel) don't have enough Carbon to harden this way, they have to have Carbon added. We call this process case hardening because of the hard case that forms on the outer few thousandths of the steel. The technical term for it is Carborizing. There are a couple of ways commonly used to carborize steel. The steel can be heated and rolled in the Kasenite that john d mentioned. This gives a shallow case of about .003-.004 depth. The other way is to pack the steel in iron filings or other Carbon rich medium and heating it for a longer period of time, sometimes several hours. It will absorb carbon to a depth of maybe 1/16, depending on the time it is left in the heat. Water quenching is used with both these methods. Tempering isn't necessary because the center is still soft.

Kasenite has a big advantage in the home or farm shop. Since it is just a process of heat and roll, it can be done with a torch. With the packing method, the steel needs to be kept at a high temperature for a long time, so you would need a furnace to take full advantage of it.

Hope this helps

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john d

01-10-2004 18:31:55




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 Re: DIY case hardening in reply to Craig, 01-10-2004 17:43:33  
Heating steel and plunging it into cold water can harden it if properly done. Case hardening is a bit different, however. There are (or at least used to be) products such as Kasenite for this purpose. It was a granular substance into which hot steel was plunged, and it would form a coating on the outside. By properly heating and cooling this, one could increase the carbon content of the outside layer of the steel, thus making it harder than the inside portion. People who followed the directions and practiced a little could get pretty good at this.

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