12 volt conversion question... AGAIN....

12v Coil, 12v solenoid, one wire alternator with internal regulator, and new three position key switch.

Red wire from alternator goes to one side of ammeter. Two wires connected on other side of ammeter go to battery side of solenoid and batttery side of key switch respectively. Ignition side of key switch has wire going to I side of solenoid and has second wire going to the coil. Yellow wire from S side of solenoid goes to starter position on key switch.

Everythign works great. Key switch works fine. Checked voltage and everythgin is doing what it is suppose to (or at least to my best understanding).

Questions...
1. In this set-up, I am not using the supplied conversion kit's 2 connection resistor at all. Do I need to have the resistor hooked up? If so where and why? The only place I suppose it is needed is between ignition side of key switch and before coil to protect coil from spikes but isn't that what the internal regulator in the alternator is there for? I have 12 volt coil and 12 volt alternator with internal regulator and a 12 volt solenoid, for what reason do I need a resistor? What damage could I do with out it if I need it?
2. I have tried to remove the yellow wire from the starter connection of the key switch back to the push button to enable use of the mechanical safety switch the push button offers. Tested push button with Voltmeter and it is good. Why will this not work? Do I have to go back to the two position key switch and then connect yellow wire back to push button?

I see why the 4 terminal solenoid is preventing me from using the push button. I had to replace the old one because it had burnt up from troubleshooting the intial electrical problem I had. Most probably my fault. The 4 terminal was all the automotive store had for 12 volt systems.

Last question on the resistor, I need to run a wire from the ignition side of the key switch into one terminal of the resistor and then from the other end,it should be connected directly to the coil... correct?

Thanks so much.

But heres the deal, the 4-terminal non-tractor solenoid requires you to provide 12-volts to activate it. (the converse of the 3-terminal 6-volt tractor safety solenoid) Understand the difference? Therefore any form of "grounding" eather of the 2-switching terminal will prevent the 4-terminal 12-volt solenoid from operating. Understand?

Now you have a non-standard 3-terminal ignition switch. (BATT, IGN, STR) Use it correctly. You have BATT from yer ampmeter terminal, that is good. You are supplying switched BATT-ON to yer 4-terminal (I) connection AND to yer squarecan ignition coil top terminal. Thats only semi-good. The ignition switch ON terminal just needs to be connected directly to the ignition coil THRU the supplied resistor. Understand?

The solenoid (I) terminal is a 12-volt OUTPUT designed to provide 12-volts directly to an 8-volt ignition coil for hotter starting sparkies during starter motor cranking ONLY.

Where does that 12-volts come from? Why the switched 12-volts from yer twist to start keyswitch (STR) terminal thru the (S) terminal of the 4-terminal starter solenoid and back out the (I) terminal. The minute you lett-upp on the twist-to-start key, the automotive ignition ON now goes thru a "ballast resistor" to the automotive ignition coil.

Dang, doesn't that almost sound like the original N-Ignition system using the "infamous ballast resistor"?

As best as I can tell, yer happy with yer NON-STANDARD starter system 12-volt conversion ...except... you'd like it to work thru yer tranny safety-interlock. That will NOT HAPPEN with the automotive 4-terminal 12-volt starter solenoid.

Now there are 4-terminal 12-volt solenoids where the 2-terminals are NOT SWITCHING termials and that can be wired so it grounds thru the BIG thumb starter switch. But it can't be wired for a twist-to-start key switch operation. Understand?

I done explained to you once before about yer ignition coil resistor. YOU NEED IT. It prevent yer squarecan ignition coil from overheating and pukeing its guttz. Understand? CAUTION: burnie-burnie. It getts HOT. Wire it so it doen't melt insulation. Understand?

You write..... "The only place I suppose it is needed is between ignition side of key switch and before coil to protect coil from spikes but isn't that what the internal regulator in the alternator is there for?"..... NO the alternators internal regulator has NOTHING to do with spikes. That is what the condenser inside the distributor is for..... ....respectfully, Dell