Sean..... ..Get rid of that d*mn electronic ignition module and send it back to the factory for checkout and evaluation. Get yer 12 volt converted sidemount ignition workin' WITHOUT THE MODULE, and AFTER you get it working right, then and only then, install the electronic ignition module. (if it comes back from factory). Thats the great thing about newbies converting to 12 volts, they think if "X" circuit is good, and hey....this here "Y" circuit looks good too, iff'n I wire my 12 volt conversion useing both them circuits, then my 12 volt "Z" circuit will be twice as good..... ..wrong.... If you use the special 12 volt coil supplied by your electronic ignition module manufacturer, and IF the manufacturer sez use a resistor, then do as he sez. If you use the OEM 6 volt roundcan ignition coil, you MUST USE a 12 to 6 volt converting resistor, ALWAYS, understand? If you use a REAL 12 volt ignition coil, they NEVER NEED A RESISTOR.....EVER, understand? and if'n yer parts person tells you to use a resistor with his choice of 12 volt coils, tell'em to look again. You want a real 12 volt coil that never uses a resistor. And shorting out your wiring harness should have NO EFFECT on your ignition coil.....BUT..... making your OWN WIRING HARNESS is eazy way to keep your coil from making sparkies. Theres is NO EAZY SHADETREE mechanics test for bad ignition coil except by REPLACEMENT. You might find a real automotive ignition repair shop that has the necessary equipment to test your $15 coil for $50 min service charge. If you think your coil is bad, buy a new one. Since you shorted out your ammeter and burned out your wiring harness, have you considered the fact that you might have mucked up your 12 volt alternator? Tak'er in for free check-up at autoparts store..... ....respectfully, Dell, a 12 volt advocate that knows 8 different ways to convert to 12 volts and get it right the first time
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