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Hey there ET, I still see you in those videos we made when you were at my camper up at the NYS Expo and my daughter (darn teenagers) was giving me crap claiming she couldnt get my Deere Massey in 3rd gear and had the audacity (obviously gets that attitude from her mom) to accuse me of locking it out lol. That elec switch is like an on off switch to ground the coils low output side to conduct coil current (just like when points were closed) and then open it ONLY WHEN the plugs are supposed to fire. Like Bob there was pointing out, if its a always closed (shorted) circuit, the coil would fire when you apply power to it and then remove it. With the ignition on there has to be power ALWAYS on its (coil) high side first (around 12 on a 12 v coil or 6 to 9 on a 6 volt ballasted coil) and then that switch (normally closed)should open ONLY when the magnet on the distributor rotor passes by the reluctance coil pickup (thats the trigger to fire the coil). If you apply a test lamp to the coils low (to unit/distributor) and then crank the tractor over realllll slowwwww ww, it should be usually off (switch closed) but then momentarily flash on (switch open) depending on switch speed and response time. With points you can readily observe the lamp flutter at slow cranking, but not sure how fast or long or visible with that elec switch ?? If the test lamp there never comes on or flutters/flashes on momentarily, theres a short to ground either in the switch as Bob indicated or else theres a shorted wire somewhere. Does that unit still use that insulated post/stud out the disributor?? cuz be sure it or a wire to its or insides isnt shorted. With the engine cranking rapidly though, a voltmeter (depends on type and quality) at the coils low output would read voltage as it sees full then zero voltage alternatively as the switch open and closes. I would just remove the cap and use the coil wire output to troubleshoot things to eliminate any cap or rotor problem. Let us know, Good Luck n God Bless John T
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