 A complete console conversion would be lots of trouble, but if you need only the three point handy, take off the seat base shroud on the right side, and you will see the end of the sturdy bourdon cable that comes from the dash to run the three point valve. You could make up a new lever on the fender to drive that bourdon cable (that comes out if you lift up the floor and open up the dash) or to drive that valve through links. The valve depends on the limits of the bourdon cable and the dash lever to set its limits of motion and operation gets all messed up if you get out of those limits. I might just remove the cable and the dash mounted lever and bolt it to the right fender with the cable in a gentle S-curve so I could still shove and pull it. Might be handy to slip the core out and grease it too when its bent more than the original installation. I learned how the dash 3 point works a couple years ago when I had to replace the cable that rusted fast over the winter. For hydraulic ports on the right side, I'd tap the pressure line just in front of the brake pedals, (which goes to the three point), feed that to a closed center valve with as many sections as I wanted mounted upside down under a shelf on the inside of the right fender (with levers reversed) and feed as many hydraulic sockets as I needed with the return to the transmission oil filter cover as is the standard way for feeding loaders with their own valve. I feed my loader and my back through separate flow limiting valves to make them easier to handle with maybe 5 GPM (as the original SCVs are limited) than with 22 GPM. Maybe I need to do that to my 4020 because it has only one SCV and my planter now needs two remotes and the MF-135 didn't hold a full load of liquid fertilizer on the three point while pulling the planter last spring. On the other hand, the MF-135 will drive a straight line by holding the steering wheel still, the 4020 won't do that. Gerald J.
| 
