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John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum
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4020 12v conversion

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matt delong

05-06-2007 18:18:14




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have a early 4020 that i decided to use to plant corn because i was sick of a cab. i converted it to 12 volts. i sent the starter (prev 24 volts to get switched to 12v) got everyting done and the tractor cranks very slow, too slow to start. new batteries 460 cca, 4/0 batt cables, and good grounds to the starter and the frame. batts load test good. was the starter not converted correctly? let me know with any ideas. thanks,
matt

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Gerald J.

05-06-2007 20:09:23




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 Re: 4020 12v conversion in reply to matt delong, 05-06-2007 18:18:14  
Most happy converters say you want the Nippondenso (big bucks) 12 volt starter.

Gerald J.



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Fern(Mi)

05-06-2007 19:06:05




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 Re: 4020 12v conversion in reply to matt delong, 05-06-2007 18:18:14  
You didn"t say whether gas or diesel?
We"ve 4010D and 4020G converted to 12 volts. Had some trouble with 4010D first off original starter had the 24v fields 12v replaced. Was short on rolling engine over. traded it in for upgrade starter for next series equivelent JD tractors. Works fine. both tractors winter start alright. Saves a lot of muss and fuss charging, jumping, changing batteries whatever, whenever.
Good luck
Fernan

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matt delong

05-06-2007 19:14:18




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 Re: 4020 12v conversion in reply to Fern(Mi), 05-06-2007 19:06:05  
diesel, 1,400 hours. never liked it because it had the cab on it so we never used it. took the cab off, fabricated an identical rollbar that deere sells for $1,700 for just under $300 and now i love it



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buickanddeere

05-06-2007 20:00:44




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 rops...........Re: 4020 12v conversion in reply to matt delong, 05-06-2007 19:14:18  
I not looking for a spat or trying to insult or dismiss your fabrications skills..... hower. Quote " fabricated an identical rollbar that deere sells for $1,700 for just under $300 " Unquote. Deere engineers & quality control dept spent alot of time, money on structural design, various metalurgy blends,how the metal is cut or bent, fastener specs, welding rod type and welding paramaters. Just to come up with a rops that is stiff enough to protect the operator. And flexible enough to absorb kenetic energy without breaking it's self or the tractor chassis. Sorry but there is absolutly no way on earth your rops can match Deere's specs in roll over condiitons.

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Fred XR 500R

05-07-2007 01:24:02




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 Re: rops...........Re: 4020 12v conversion in reply to buickanddeere, 05-06-2007 20:00:44  
UH-OH,..... ...here we go again



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G/MAN

05-07-2007 07:33:40




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 Re: rops...........Re: 4020 12v conversion in reply to Fred XR 500R, 05-07-2007 01:24:02  
He's absolutely right, and Deere fought many problems when designing the Roll-Gard. Including problems with brittle steel when it was very cold outside.



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low budget

05-07-2007 09:17:19




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 Re: rops...........Re: 4020 12v conversion in reply to G/MAN, 05-07-2007 07:33:40  
Not to mention the fact that you can buy the Deere Roll Gard for around $700,why bother to even try fabricating one.



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G/MAN

05-06-2007 19:11:26




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 Re: 4020 12v conversion in reply to Fern(Mi), 05-06-2007 19:06:05  
I don't believe Deere ever put the 24-volt system on anything but diesels. Perhaps you installed a 12-volt diesel starter on your gas-burner in place of the original 12-volt starter? But I tend to agree with you - installing a true 12-volt starter off a later diesel tractor would probably be the way to go.



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G/MAN

05-06-2007 18:25:10




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 Re: 4020 12v conversion in reply to matt delong, 05-06-2007 18:18:14  
If everything else is up to par like it sounds, then I'd start looking at the starter. If there was an issue with how the commutator frame and field coils are connected, that could be the problem. I'm not familiar with what's done to "convert" one from 24 volts to 12 volts, but I imagine it involves changing the way the starter is wired internally. I suppose it's also possible that it's wired correctly but there is some sort of short or ground in the starter causing this. Was a 12-volt solenoid installed? Once again, I don't know that there's a difference, but it's something else to think about.

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matt delong

05-06-2007 18:28:05




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 Re: 4020 12v conversion in reply to G/MAN, 05-06-2007 18:25:10  
there was a 12v cyl installed, the work order says he replaced brushes, turned armature, and cleaned, but nothing about rewiring, i wonder if he just didn't clean it, put a 12v cyl on it and call it good, that would explain why it is turning slow



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G/MAN

05-06-2007 18:41:58




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 Re: 4020 12v conversion in reply to matt delong, 05-06-2007 18:28:05  
Like I said, I can't say for sure, but I would certainly think something is out of whack with the starter or how it's hooked up. I haven't been around a whole bunch of 24-to-12 conversions, but I don't think I've ever seen a 24-volt starter "converted" to 12-volt operation. Normally a "real" 12-volt starter is used. Remember that on the 24-volt system, the positive cable from one battery is connected to the big post on the starter frame and the negative cable from the other battery to the big post on the solenoid. It's a split-load system where the batteries are 12-volt units but are wired to provide 24 volts to the starter and the generator is a 24-volt unit that charges the batteries as two separate 12-volts. Half of the 12-volt system operates off one battery and half off the other. I could be wrong, but I really tend to believe that if the 24-volt starter is going to work properly - if it can be made to work at all - it's going to have to be internally wired in a certain way and connected to the batteries in a certain way to mimic how a 12-volt starter works and is connected. I haven't been inside many starters at all, but I do know that they're not a one-size-fits-all deal when it comes to how the fields and brushes are connected.

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