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John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum
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4020 D Charging Problems

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Bob Frey

12-07-2006 07:03:08




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I have a 1964, 4020 Diesel s/n 66815 and have been having some problems with the charging system. The previous owner placed an alternator on it and there seem to be wires unhooked and left uncovered in several places. I think it may be just as well to start all over again with wiring up a system that will work properly. I have been watching the discussion here on the forum and it sounds like converting to a 12 volt system may be the best answer for me. The tractor is kept inside a heated garage so starting in cold weather is not a problem. I am looking for some good advice and a wiring diagram so that I can proceed with this. I figure that I must change to a 12 volt starter? I just checked the tractor and the batteries are arranged so that it has both a positive and negative 12 volts allowing for the 24 volt starter. I suppose that also means it has a 24 volt alternator?

Thanks in advance for the help.
Bob

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Gerald J.

12-07-2006 09:28:27




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 Re: 4020 D Charging Problems in reply to Bob Frey, 12-07-2006 07:03:08  
I have the wiring diagrams in my shop manual (not I&T but Deere SM-2039 IIRC) and the changes before cobbling don't look to be necessarily complicated. This shop manual never admits to 12 volts on a diesel or an alternator, though 24 volt alternators are in my pre side console parts book. Later 4020D did go to 12 volts beginning with airconditioned cabs.

The pre SN 99,000 wiring harness was all one piece, no connectors. After that the harness was in two or three pieces with connectors at the fire wall, but essentially the same functions. But sometimes the circuit wire insulation color changed at the connector to complicate visual circuit tracing.

The way I see the conversion, its essentially connecting the +12 and -12 supplies together to run at + 12 volts, and converting the charging, battery connections, and starter to run between the +12 and ground instead of floating. The batteries can be reconnected, the starter and charger (alternator for performance) have to be replaced. Starters are not rare, and alternators abound from all over the world. There remains a duplication in switch poles, using two poles where a pure 12 volt tractor needs only one, but that's the artifact from having the split system and having to keep the auxiliary loads matched to get the two batteries charged equally.

The 10SI I put on my gas 4020 has an extension to the pivot bolt hole that fits between the ears of the generator bracket, but I had to turn the bracket end for end and lengthen the mounting holes to the block to get the pulley to line up. There is a part number for a Deere bracket to take care of all that.

Having the Deere shop manual and the parts book in front of you can make the changes most obvious.

Gerald J.

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Bob

12-07-2006 08:12:21




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 Re: 4020 D Charging Problems in reply to Bob Frey, 12-07-2006 07:03:08  
If you can identify the alternator you have, we can probably figure out what's wrong. It COULD be a Motorola, from a later 4020 or 5010 or 5020. Those alternators used a couple of different voltage regulator setups, so there can be a wiring tangle there, too.

Since it has been converted from a generator to an alternator, it is not unusual to have a couple of odd extra wires hanging around, but they shouldn't be bare!

I'm NOT really an advocate of changing them to 12-Volts, but if that's what you want to do, I can email you a diagram.

If having the fuel gauge work and read correctly after the change to 12 Volts negative ground, you'll have to get a matching fuel gauge/sender for a late 4020.

bigcoulee@hotmail.com

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John T

12-07-2006 07:38:42




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 Re: 4020 D Charging Problems in reply to Bob Frey, 12-07-2006 07:03:08  
Bob, if the batterys are connected in series and if they are "BOTH" being charged across their combined series 24 volts and it indeed is working (BOTH batteries receiving charge), YES sounds like its a 24 volt alternator..... No tellin how those can be jury rigged, however, so not being there NO WARRANTY on any of this lol

Place a voltmeter across the series sum of the 2 batterys and setting if they are good n fully charged (and they are in series???) it ought to read 25.2 volts. Then fire her up n give her some RPM and the sum battery voltage ought to rise somewhere to the 27 and 28 volt range ifffff ffff the charging system is alllll working.

If converting to 12 volts you can keep the two batterys but simply wire them in paralell, of course.

The New Generation gents like Gerald J n others can better advise you on the conversion (pretty well covered below I think) cuz Im only certified at 12 volts lol

John T

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